Despite the pilot warning “care is needed in a night approach because of the shoal water” it turned out our anchor spot was pretty good.

Anchorage outside the harbour

We were woken early in the morning with the local fishing boats passing us on their way back in to ofload their catch.

We inflated the dinghy and went into the port.

We managed to arrange a small berth right on the inside, very sheltered. It meant Lily could get some shore leave. There was also a vet, turned out a very good vet, who could arrange to give her a rabies shot which was due and a general check over.

Nea Artaki was a nice little town with a pretty waterfront windmill and church off of which was a floating raft housing ducks in a little “Kennel”

One of the highlights for us was the discovery of a true Pakistani curry shop / take away – as long as you didn’t look to close at the surroundings and the grim young men hanging round the tables. The guy who presumably was in charge was lovely and so was the curry and Nan bread.

Along the front there were some quite up market tavernas.

We hadn’t planned spending too long so after two days we headed off to Melouna, 15 miles further north described on Navily as a delightful anchorage, which it was when we arrived as you can see from the pictures.

Unfortunately at about 06:00 the following morning Louise woke me to say you better have a look outside – we were nearly on the beach getting blown in on gusts of 25 kts. Not thinking clearly we hightailed it back down all the way back to Nea Artaki, because we knew the anchorage.

In hindsight we should have just headed to Ormos Politika 5 miles nearer!

It was a right slog into the wind and waves with the engine whining like a banshee as we had to use quite high revs! I note I had written in the log “pissed off” “very pissed off”. Anyhow made it back to Nea Artaki and after a few phone calls arranged an engineer for the following Monday in Orei.

Sunday 28th May

If there is an easy way or a difficult one we are sure to pick the latter!

Today was no different.

Having seen the fortress from our anchorage we set off up what seemed the obvious hill to visit it.

Past ancient grafitti on our way

On we go …..

and on ………

and on ……..

and having finally arrived ………. only to be confronted by a srceaming kids outing! lol

The Fortress itself is a 17th century Ottoman castle built on the “continental” coast of the city of Khalkis (not on the island of Evia) which together with the destroyed castle of Khalkis had made the city impregnable.

The site of the fortress is thought to be by some scholars as ancient Kanethos.

The castle now seen was probably built by the Turks in 1684 in order to protect Khalkis from the Venetians. It was designed by the Venetian Gerolimo Galopo and  architecturally is more European than Turkish in character. The fortress was unsuccessfully besieged by the Venetians of Morozini in 1688 and the Turks managed to keep it until the Greek liberation when they gave it over to the Greek state after the treaty of 1833

The descent was a more direct affair back down the steps into the town for another look around, have some lunch , fuel up & get things ready for our departure.

Monday 29^th May

Bridge Transit

Unfortunately we have no pictures of the actual bridge transit.

The bridge invariably opens at night for half an hour or so at slack water. Having paid your fees to the port authority you are told a time to be ready (between 10:00pm and 03:00 am). No matter how many people try they are unwilling for some reason to give a definitive time or even a smaller interval!

You listen to your radio and at some point you are told to make ready. Thereafter form an orderly line through the bridge that is now opened allowing any big ships the right of way first.

Apparently it can sometimes be mayhem but for us all seemed reasonably calm and a bonus we got through not long after 10:00.

People line the bridge sides and overlooking taverna to watch and there is a live webcam on line as well. We tried to let people know to watch but not knowing the exact time of our passing it was an issue.

We didn’t want to stop alongside on the quay landing just 2 minutes north of the bridge for two reasons. Lily, and also reports of people jumping on and off boats, theft and even violence. Sad that it seems also to have reached Greece – well this part anyway but very unusual. So we are heading to anchor at Nea Artaki just under 5 miles away. See the town in the distance in the picture below.

We arrived at just after 11:00pm and anchored just outside the harbour hoping we had gauged the tidal range and shoal water correctly. Was there any doubt? lol

…. yes a little !

It’s Saturday so we are off up the “toon.”

Khalkida “toon” that is.

It has various spellings but for this particular blog it’s Khalkis.

Sam & Graham had told us of a friendly little fishing harbour you can tie your dinghy up at just this side of the bridge and walk over into the town. On the dinghy ride in you pass the train terminus from Athens (and presumably places in between) which funnily enough just stops before bridge!  The Greeks seem to accept colourful grafitti as an art form as the walls are covered with them.

The bridge in the distance & little fishing harbour on the left around the corner

Train station

The old fishermen are very welcoming. Once you have climbed out you are virtually on the old bridge itself.

The channel was 1^st spanned way back in 411 BC; later Justinian replaced it with a moving wooden one. Under the Venetians the island took the name Negroponte, “the black bridge”, from the bridge of the same name. In 1896 a Belgian company built an iron swing bridge that remained until 1962 when the existing bridge was built.

Although the port office would not tell you the exact opening times this traffic sign always gave a good indication to the drivers off the planned closing and reopening times

The dangerous currents in the channel are mentioned in ancient sources. Cicero & Pliny amongst others commented on them. Tradition has it that Aristotle flung himself into the channel because of his inability to explain the phenomenon. Bit extreme, but perhaps drink had been taken? Wicked stuff that Ouzo !

It was our 1^st glimpse of the current that can run through the channel & there are canoe slalom poles hanging to make use of the waves generated.

A bar sits immediately above the NW side of the bridge which must give a spectacular view of the boats & ships passing through when opened.

Khalkis is the modern capitol of Evoia. The water front is a busy pedestrianised area filled with bars & restaurants

and a street back a shopping precinct lined by clothes shops, phone shops, butchers, coffee stops, hairdressors, pet shops, Onan betting and the rest we have become accustomed to in Greek fashion all happily rubbing along side by side.

As they say “a picture’s worth a thousand words”

…..and again lol.

It being a Saturday it was bunged and near impossible to find a seat in the many noisy coffee bars, but we eventually did.

Then having explored the town, did some provisions shopping, bicuits for the fishermen and walked along past the army barracks to see the Yacht Club / Marina, we had lunch in a taverna overlooking the bridge.

Weather still a bit cloudy & overcast at times but it didn’t spoil our day ashore.

It even felt like a Saturday – maybe should’ve bought a lotto ?

Friday 26^th May and today we are heading to the famous Chalkis Bridge.

Sailing northward up the channel has been vastly different and an enjoyable change from our usual inter-island one tack passages and today was to be no exception. Again a relatively short 18 mile trip and in sight of land all the way – a novelty these days.

Although the above chart excerpt shows our straight rhum line to the entrance of the channel into Chalkis (Wpt. No. 1), we in fact tacked between Evoia and the mainland most of the way up & we weren’t too rusty after years of using Peggy (our self steering mechanism).

Ak Alvis is the low lying spit with the lighthouse (below) marking the entrance through the shipping channel. You can just see how shallow it is from the second picture of the guy fishing well off the point and the water just reaching up to his shins.

One past this spit ship yards line the shore and you get your first proper view of the new road bridge, under that and then Chalkis itself.

We did eventually have to use the engine in the fairway where we had to dodge two big Large Bulk Carriers, one exiting from under the new road bridge around a blind corner! and another being towed by a couple of tugs.

“Khalkis Yacht Club” (Voukari) in the distance. We think Bob & Andrea stayed here for a while a few years back.

1st view of the town proper

You can see (below) in the distance a number of boats anchored nearer the old bridge in preparation for that night’s passage through when it opens.

Chalkis fortress on the hill and the main town centre off to the right acrosss the bridge

We however had planned a stay of a few days to see the town & explore.

We anchored in the large bay on the left hand side near another Moody belonging to Sam & Graham who it turns out are friends from the same winter boat yard as Dale & Linda. Small world!

Sam & Graham’s Moody

Views back from our anchorage to where we came from.

After a nice couple of nights in good company in Karavos we headed northward to Eritia.

It’s now Wednesady 24^th May. Again only a short hop of 13 miles today. From sublime to …….etc….. it was calm – no wind! only 5 kts – so a motor job.

Approaches to Eritia are surrounded by above and below water rocks, an ancient sunken mole and a dangerous sunken wreck, but as usual the pilot makes it sound far worse than it actually is.

Approaching

Eritria is also called Neo Psara.

In 1822 the Turks massacred the populations of Xios and nearby Psara after a rebellion and the survivors of Psara fled to Evia where they were given land at Eritria / Neo Psara.

It is a growing tourist resort and the first place that has been outwardly so thus far but it had a very nice feeling when approaching and which was borne out ashore.

The first afternoon, having visited the vet for worm tablets we had lunch at a lovely harbour side taverna and then just back to the boat for a swim & a chill.

The following day the Greek “Red Arrows” provided a spectacular display though not to everone’s taste. The cat having just having had her worm medecine was further amused (not) by the screaming jet engines and dissapeared into my bunk.

That evening’s plan was a dinghy ride to Dream Island’s wee harbour and a walk into the town. During the meander having spotted chicken on a spit being prepared I created to return there for our dinner. Mmmmm!

A nice stop, great anchorage and just enough ashore to make it attractive and interesting. Would go back if ever this way again.

“Aye ……. so would I if I could get ashore !! “

One night was enough in Buffalo and leaving in gusty conditions I took my eye off the ball and came close to an off lying island at the entrance. Close but thankfully no cigar!

In a fresh NW we headed 13 miles to Karavos.

It was a hard tack into the harbour against the the wind  in grey skies and roughish seas.

The atmospheric power station loomed like something out of “Water World” helped by the bleak conditions. I expected to see Kevin Kostner come flying towards me on his trimaran being chased by jet skis.

The harbour is properly called Karavos and the town a short distance away is Aliverion. It’s a strangely captivating place that has been mostly bypassed by tourism. The giant power station of Pirgos on the opposite side of the bay is soon accepted as part of the scenery and not the blot on the landscape it first might appear to be.

We were helped to tie up alongside the harbour wall by a lovely young English couple on a Sadler – Kieran & Hannah with their little dog Nelson. The wall itself was a bit grim with iron spikes ready to ruin your gel coat so care was needed. That said we only stayed alongside one night anyway as again the resident cat made its feelings clear towards Lily.

Harbour side views

The next day we anchored off in the large bay.

A walk to Aliveron and Lidl threw up some interesting sights along the way.

Stocked up and having a beer back at the harbour Kieren & Hannah and another English couple Bob & Lizzie joined us – this was to be a repeat performance on the trip northwards.

and of course Nelson

Originally the plan had been to travel on with Nicolas to Kithnos and then branch off northwards towards the Evvoia channel but the weather forecast was for strong westerlies at Kithnos and having been there before, lovely though it is, didn’t fancy our chances if the only safe anchorage was full, so we wimped out and headed directly north to the very south of Evvoia. As it turned out when Nicolas arrived there was just one other boat. That’s the way it goes sometimes.

Evvoia is a large island, the 2^nd biggest in Greece after Crete. In both Classical & Venetian times Evvoia was an important stopping place along the Aegean trade route between Athens and what is now northern Turkey.

Evvoia – the big island NE of Athens

In ancient times an enemy wishing to invade the city state of Athens would follow a fairly standard route down through Evvoia channel and the adjacent mainland to southern Greece. The pass of Thermopylae & the plain of Marathon are probably the two best known classical battle sites. At Marathon 10,000 Greeks held off in excess of 24,000 Persians and it is said that the ghostly figures of Pan and Theseus appeared to assist the Athenians on the battlefield.

Anyway I digress.

On the 16^th May we said our goodbyes to Nicolas who would be picking his sister up later in the month for a holiday to the Cyclades and we headed north just over 42 miles to a bay on the very south of Evvoia called Karystos.

It was a very stormy night when we arrived and we got tucked up in the lee of a small cove in the south just before dark. The city & harbour itself was still 5 miles away. Unfortunately the whining noise from the shaft has not reduced as advised, by our engineer back in Samos, it should after 10 engine hours or so. We are far in excess of that and far more again under sail with the shaft turning. Not good!

We awoke in the morning to a real pea souper, you couldn’t see the bow of the boat – but it did clear. You can see the remnants in the pictures. Breath of the dragon.

I decided to investigate if the shaft anode was the issue? I dived under the boat and dropped the allen key trying to loosen the hex nuts, however holding my breath just managed to retrieve it from the seabed! I finally moved the anode along the shaft to see if that cured the whine – but no joy.

We didn’t go into Karystos proper. It’s a growing tourist resort situated on a narrow strip of land at the foot of a spectacular mountain range. In places it drops a sheer 1,500 feet into the sea. Apparently the bus trip along the road cut into the mountainside is not for the faint hearted.

Next day Wed 17^th May we moved to a small group of islands called Megalonisos Petalidhes, off the SW coast of Evvoia.

There are numerous anchorages. We chose Nisos Tragos an islet with a villa and it’s own small harbour.

Strictly private and no use of or landing allowed. How the other half live?

Lucky Beggars !

One night here and onwards again passing the resorts of Nea Marmara & Nea Stira to Almiropotamos. Sailing under reefed main and genoa, wind 20 knots gusting more. I think when sailing in Evvoia its best to underestimate the forecast.

The place names on Evvoia make me think I am on an African safari rather than cruising Greece. Almiropotamus, Boufalo, Eritria, came to be called Hippopotamus, Buffalo and obviously Eritrea.

After 19 miles and 4 hours we entered “Hippopotamus” and a choice of anchorages.

The wind direction helped us in choosing the “Blue Lagoon”, a small spit of land at the head of the bay on the left (NW) that protects you from the north winds. Across the bay 1.5 miles away is Panayia the little settlement and ferry port to Ay Marina on the mainland. In strong winds this harbour & anchorage could be uncomfortable and possibly even untenable. The blue lagoon is not big and luckily we were the only boat in.

The “Blue Lagoon”

Next morning in relative calm we thought the quayside at Panayia looked promising for a shore break for Lily. The charter boats that had been there had all but left by 10:00 am, except the lead boat, so we scooted across and berthed up alongside.

Panyia harbour

Lily was off with Louise tracking her and I was filling the boat with water when the “Lily Screech” now instantly recognizable filled the air accompanied by both Louise & Lily high tailing it back on board. It was cat city and the locals hadn’t taken kindly to an inquisitive newcomer.

Lily not happy – she keeps getting exited about shore leave – then gets none – It’s a damn shame.

Not impressed

All this stress is taking it out of me I’m off for a kip!

So at least filled with water , garbage dumped and cat safely back on board we returned to the other side of the bay , this time Aghios Dimitri , spitting distance north of the previous nights anchorage.

Anchorage at Aghios Dimitri

We had been talking to the English couple aboard the only other anchored boat there. That’s them in the distance.

and they advised the only taverna was open and reasonable – so that was the plan for that evening, dinghy up and inflated.

Ashore we go in the, all too common this year, cloudy weather to find the village deserted and the taverna shut.

The cupboards were bare

A nice little square and surroundings though.

It’s only 19:00 so we decide to go for a walk and return after to see if any sign of life afterwards.

On the way a family advise that they think it opens at 19:30 so great at least a meal & some wine ashore in the offing, but it’s Greece so Siga Siga .

The climb up offers some fab views of our current anchorage that would have been better with some sun. Note the fleeces!

Anyhow returning expectantly now well after 19:30  and still no sign of life except an old guy sitting on one of the taverna chairs. We ask if the taverna is opening and after some sign language he makes a call & motions us to sit.

10 minutes or so later a sleepy “wummin” whom , to use a Glasgow phrase, “you wouldn’t want to bring a bust pay packet home to” shuffles into the taverna in slippers. Ordering is a laugh with neither understanding the other – however a meal is indeed prepared and even access to the mini market for a needed emergency restock.

Keeping on the move this year is the nature of the game with a view to reaching the Sporades before the charter hordes. That said we are trying to call in at all the places of interest, the next being “Buffalo” a mere 8 miles further north. It’s cloudy again! Part motor, part sail.

Voufalo the correct name is an almost landlocked bay with a sand spit, a sunken cruiser and an abandoned anchored yacht to be considered when anchoring.

We anchored just off the head of the bay as recommended not far from the anchored yacht hoping not to catch his numerous chains mentioned in the pilot books.

That’s Camira in the distance

The sun had come out so we went for a walk from one side of the bay to the other.

before filling with water and visting the local taverna.

It looked better than it was , loads of flies and yet again nosey local cats, lol.

Well the plan had been to head north with the expected southerly winds forecasted after a visit to an ophthalmologist in Karlovassi to have my IOP checked. I was advised I regularly should when leaving Scotland. Unfortunately it has increased – not good given my family history – so another visit this time back to Vathi the next day was required for medication. This meant we missed the only glimmer of southerlies for a while.

We were quite impressed with Ormos Marina but had been there long enough so a change of plan was hatched. Instead of heading north we would go west across the Aegean through the northernmost Cyclades, to Siros, and possibly Kithnos.

The overall passage plan

We would then make our way northwards up through the Evoia channel to the Sporades. The latter being areas of Greece we have not yet visited by boat.

Our 1^st leg was just across to Nisidhes Fournoi, a rock bound set of islands just to the west of Samos. We left at lunch time expecting a lazy 3 hour meander across from Marathocampos. Poseidon was having none of it! 26 knots of unforecast wind meant a brisk sail and arriving in our proposed anchorage in jig time, the bay just north of Makronisi, near my digit in the picture below. Another boat was in prime position but we managed to squeeze in. Dinner, a few glasses of wine and bed at 20:00!!

The first stop

We were back up at 02:00 to set off for Siros, 82 or so miles to the west across what can be a very windy channel, so we were leaving early to minimize a battering. As it turned out the channel crossing section was relatively benign and gave us a fantastic sail, the “battering “took place just south of Mykonos and for the whole length of the island. Apparently, we found out later, this was the norm caused by winds screaming over Tinos and Mykonos. The last time we had visited nearby Delos however it was like a millpond. The plus side again was we saw 7.5 + knots boat speed and crossed in less time than expected, tired but buzzing.

The 2nd passage

Woooo hoo !

We anchored in Ormos Finikou a large bay on the south west of Siros just east of the figures “5M” in the above chart picture. Nicolas was still here and he came over over for an aperitif………..

Finikas bay – a nice spot if a bit overcast tonight.

………. after which, with the adrenaline now well depleted, it was time for a kip. Lily too was out for the count by now having been fed, watered and at last being able to visit her box!

Nicolas’ boat Syeni in the foreground

The big boat with the lights costs a discounted May rate 0f 98,000 euros for a week!

The bay and the beach are very attractive so itis not surprising that a number of hotels & villas have sprouted her. Nearly everyone who visits here likes it, us included this is our second visit. Unfortunately the Pizza restuarant wasn’t yet open.

The day after crossing & settling in to Finikas

Last time Louise visited Ermoupolis, for a hairdressing trip, but this was my first venture into the largest town.

Ermoupolis is still the capital of the Cyclades although it may not have the commercial power of old but it still buzzes. There is a large shipyard that would rival John Brown’s and ships were built here but now mainly only maintenance work.

The buildings around the harbour reflect the past power. A wander round the backstreets and you can see neo classical buildings and ship owners’ mansions some crumbling a bit here and there. The quay is alive day and night and the front has unlimited choice of bars where you can sit and watch the ferries coming & going. In the back streets you can find old fashioned ouzeries sitting amongst newer chic clothes shops. The town was historically split into a Catholic area & the Orthodox Greek area with cathedrals and churches of both perched high up above the town. On her previous visit Louise climbed to the highest Greek Orthodox one where on arrival a priest took pity on her and gave her some water. You can see the church in the photographs – some climb!

Our visits this time were a bit less ecclesiastical, chandlers and laundry. So up early for the bus into town, the first day trip for my “tourist” visit and to buy some ropes for Camira and a solar controller for Syeni, of course followed by aperitifs , lunch and the bus back.

Unfortunately on the 2^nd visit having done the laundry, had lunch & found butchers outside of which what we thought was our bus stop, wasn’t and it was a taxi job back to Finikas.

 

Louise had said I would like Ermoupolis and I did.

There was an established social group at the marina when we arrived. A Dutch guy with a catamaran next to us, Valdemar so you’ve guessed it I nicknamed him Harry Potter. Mark & Sonya, a Swiss couple new to sailing. Matti & Ron also Dutch on a Southern Cross and Stephan the German who works at the marina and Nicolas.

They had had numerous BBQs in the past and had one planned for the night after our lunch at the taverna. We said we would come along just for a drink as we were stuffed. Louise did make humus & guacamole and of course we took some wine.

A good night & when I had returned to the boat to replenish wine stocks Mrs M decided after that we had better hit the hay as she could tell I was getting a taste for it. The sooner she starts drinking again the better, lol.

Nicolas stayed on and I would be surprised if he did leave the next morning as planned.

But in the end he did, good man – see you after, somewhere.

 

Nicolas had discovered an authentic Greek taverna up the hill about an hour’s climb away in Marathocampos that he wanted to visit with us before he set off.

It was a fair climb but worth it for the views, the village and the taverna.

Some pictures of the day

Setting off from Ormos

Romeo & Juliet of the cat world

Still in the village “typical Greek sights”

On our way

Part way up Nicolas wanted to transplant his cactus to see if he can revive it  – presumably to be revisited at the end of this season

View over to Samiopoulo island & a resevoir

Finally into the village

and the taverna

and the descent