Off to Patmos ? – eh possibly !

14th October 2025

The plan today was a final visit to Patmos before heading back to Samos for the winter in Another Day in Paradise

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Passage planned for today

At 08:20 anchor up it was 5 knots of wind from the due north in the bay as we motored past a big military transport. The crew at the front watched us raising our mainsail – I hope we looked seaman like . LOL

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It takes a while to exit the long entrance and I see from the log it was about an hour later we were abeam the rocks just north of the entrance, beating into a now 15 knot wind bang on the nose.

Would we continue on to Patmos?  With the rising wind & waves ?

We continued towards the Archangel channel for a go / no go decision (Wpt 2)

In the end we decided NO, we would head back to Lipsi.

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Change of plan

At 10:50 am we were exiting the channel and heading back to Kouloura (Wpt 3).

By 12:00 pm we were anchored back in Kouloura with only one other boat for company.

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We spent quite an uncomfortable night due to the swell. Safe as houses, but just no fun. Louise has always preferred the bay around the corner and has said before it’s more sheltered from the swell, and she is right, so next day we headed around there. Shouldn’t be busy this time of year.

We had another couple of days in Lipsi and of course a final visit to Manolis’

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Another during provisioning fuel stop

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The walk in – that’s Katsidia  in the distance.

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Friendly donkey on the walk in – that’s him on the right

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Finally Lipsi harbour  …….and

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Ouzo stop (again you say ?) before Manolis’ Tastes

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Manaolis himself

Saturday 18th October 2025

This would be our last sail until April 2027 !!

If we haven’t sold the boat !!

Who knows ?

It was forecasted to be southerlies and indeed it started out SE at 08:00 am as we left, but by 11:30 am it was NE 15 knots gusting 20 , definitely not what was forecasted but a good sail ,if a bit bouncy. We had a full main and a reef in the Genoa. At 12:30 we were about 10 degrees off course but the wind usually dies as you approach Samos so we would adjust then.

15:30 In a berth on C Pontoon just in front of Marco’s.

Well that’s it ! a split short but enjoyable season – will it be our last …….. ?

The end of sailing 2025

Total  (2025)  521 miles, underway 119 hours.

Total  (2014 – date)  13,374 miles, underway 2,971 hours.

Lakki Lakki boy

I realise I always seem to be giving Lakki a hard press but we do actually like it for all the reasons we have previously said.

After our night on the buoys at Pandelli we headed back around to Lakki. It was an overcast day and a mix of sailing then needing the engine. We arrived just after 11:00am and anchored in a lumpy bay due to the SW winds. Hopefully this will pass.

You can see from the chart, Leros is not very big. In fact you can walk from end to end quite easily.

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Leros Island & Xirocampos bay at the south

Xirocampos is a nice walk . It’s the large bay down at the south. We had decided to revisit the fish taverna that Kalliopi had taken us to before.

On the way two cyclists on electric bikes were almost past us when we recognised It was Dean & Alison. Turns out they were also anchored in the bay , so we arranged to meet up one night later on.

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Dean & Alision

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One of the churches at Xirocampos

On the way down to Xirocamopos you pass the mansion that Mussolini had built for himself before he got kicked out of Leros a wee bit earlier than he expected.

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Mussolini’s Gaff

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Xirocampos beach & anchorage

We were not disappointed with the calamari.

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Well worth the walk

We did have that night out with Dean & Alison

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“They’re ashore again drinking, especially him!”

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Aperitif time with Dean & Alison

We had a few nights in the cheap and cheerful taverna just across from our boat before it was time to leave , fully provisioned up.

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Heading ashore at sunset

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Our quirky wee taverna with the upside down table stuck to the ceiling

Tomorrow we would be heading north again and ultimately “home” for the winter

East of Java ? ……. no East of Leros.

We stayed until Sunday 5th October when the winds from the south abated.

We decided for a change to try an alternative stopping point on the east side of Leros.

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All of 7 miles or so

From the log book I see we had a lazy day leaving Blefoutis at 15:15

Now normally we have absolutely no problems anchoring. Our Rocna anchor has been outstanding.

Unfortunately on this occasion, no matter how many times we tried, we couldn’t get the anchor to bite at the remaining space at either Alindi, (Wpt 6) or near Aghia Marina (Wpt 8). We did manage to find a spot in the little bay at (Wpt 7) but we were quite shallow and too near a couple of other boats. They were very graceful but we didn’t think it fair so we upped and left.

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Our unsuccessful anchoring attempts

In the end we plumped for the new buoys at Pandelli. (Panteli on my Italian Chart !!!)

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We used to anchor here in years past, just a bit further south of the buoys off the beach. It’s a bit hit and miss there, it’s a rocky shelf with sand on top.

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Remaining anchor spots – the two boats in the distance.

Anyway we now fancied a meal ashore so we stumped up our 30 euros a night for a buoy.

George is very professional in his little tender buzzing about the boats, directing you then taking your bow lines and tying you off. It’s absolutely bunged with charter boats – must be on the KOS charterers places to visit, and why not? It’s a lovely spot.

We ate ashore in Pirofani, the same restaurant we had visited on the beach front many years ago. The prices not unexpectedly are up a bit but still lovely and a great spot.

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Glorious sunsets & heading ashore for the evening

The fish harbour end is a wee bit run down now, such a shame. You used to be able to pick up a spot here if you were a wee boat & wished to try your chances at squeezing in. We never did though & I wouldn’t fancy it now.

The views from the buoys are fantastic, albeit 30 euros a night is a bit steep to justify lingering more than one night. Got to watch them Scottish Groats.

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Morning pictures from the boat

Bye-Bye Kouloura, Hello Blefoutis

Would you believe it the wind is going to go southerly again and quite a blow is expected, so its off across the almost 6 miles to Blefoutis Bay on Leros but not before I headed into Lipsi town to fill up our three 20 litre jerry cans with water.

A bit less luxurious than before but it did have it’s reward !

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The water station Lipsi town

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The “other” water station, Lipsi town.

Whilst here, just on the off chance, I tried a few fisherman type shops to see if I could get a replacement anode – to my surprise there is an actual boat chandlers just off the road we normally take in to town . We had been coming to Lipsi for years and didn’t know it was here, walking past it all the time !

AND they did have an  anode, Great! I went  under the boat in the nice clear water of Kouloura  and fitted it. No immediate need to visit Lakki then.

Once back with the water and anode repair effected we headed off to Blefoutis.

Being so close we arrived first but, as expected more boats arrived later in the day to join us sheltering from the forecasted weather.

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“Looks nice & clear to me skipper “

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“Oh!  Oh !”

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“Have you seen them?”

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“Oi are you listening to me?”

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New arrivals

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and more 

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and the weather did change

After the storm we walked up to an old Italian General’s Mansion – now dilapidated and used by a goatherd to house his goats. Its all kitted out inside like a byre. Very comfy – if you are a goat – the herder also has a wee camp bed.

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Almost there

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The building is now the preserve of goats

We also tramped  down then back up up to the winery only to find it closed for the season – only a barrel of empty bottles !!!!!  Not impressed. LOL

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The “non” winery

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Full now in the anchorage -view from up the hill.