The plan for today is a gentle day sail after 5 nights in Porto Koufo we are heading 10 miles up to Nea Marmaris.

 

Passage plan 10 miles hopefully not across land though

What started out as a 7kt breeze quickly changed to 17kts so it was quite a fast passage.

I have often seen on the charts “Sea Plane Landing Area” but today was my first live sighting (Louise was snoozing below and missed it). A yellow plane with floats circled above us then descended about a mile away and performed a touch and go.

On the way to Nea Marmaris you pass Porto Carras Marina developed along the lines of the posh Marinas in the South of France by Greek shipping magnate John Carras – hence the name. It houses two hyper-hotels, squash & tennis courts, swimming pools, boutiques, theatre and a casino. Importantly they also have resident Port Police (Hellenic Coast Guard). These are the people I need to get our annual cruising permit “Dekpa” stamped and it’s due soon. If you don’t get it stamped before the anniversary date it’s a 500 Euro fine.

Air photo of Porto Carass from the Pilot book

Now, just for info, historically the Greek harbours nightly charge can be about 4 to 10 Euros but more often than not no charge at all and that sometimes even includes water & electricity. The pukka marinas on the other hand can be around 20 to 30 Euros. So we expected a quote of a wee bit higher from Porto Carras but not the 84.00 Euros plus VAT (24%) plus 10.00 Euros for electricity, plus a metered charge for water! So not for us ! Although in anticipation, I had dug out my black dinner jacket for the casino. Ah well, maybe next time Mr Bond ?

Nea Marmaris was a settlement in ancient times predating the Byzantine settlement. In 1922 Greeks from Turkey were settled here in one of the exchange of populations and the village was renamed Nea Marmaris. It has developed into a large resort town and the original village around the natural harbour now climbs up and over the steep too hummock behind the harbour.

We arrived past the broken breakwater at 10:00 am dropped our anchor and slotted stern too into the last available berth on the pontoon. Bob and Andrea had been alongside the fishing dock for the previous few nights; he’s not keen on the Mediterranean mooring as his boat having bilge keels doesn’t go backwards that well.

   

The harbour and submerged wave breaker pontoon at night

  

Heading out the 1st night

Having safely negotiated all the dangers on approach, the restaurant recommended by Bob & Andrea was to prove more troublesome to the skipper!

  

Ooops ! new  t shirt as well.

T shirt changed, the next night we were joined by Bob & Andrea for a Friday Night Gyros, this has become a habit since our meeting in Kalamata.

  

No …… I’ve no idea what I am doing ?

   

Gyros here we come

Some interesting sites along the way:

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Ducks outside the Dire Hotel

The 1^st day I had visited almost all the mini markets in Nea Marmaris unsuccessfully looking for cat sanitary supplies – cat litter to you & me & more importantly Lily. Ever tried miming cat litter to a non English speaking Greek?

The 2^nd day Louise has success on her first hit, lucky white heather, I say. I was getting ready to dig up the beach.

Cat sorted we can think about moving on.

Saturday 22nd we set sail heading around to Porto Koufo about 16 miles.

Porto Koufo is a magnificent natural harbour at the western foot of the Sinthonia peninsula (2^nd finger) of Khalkidhiki.

 

Passing Cape Ampelos

     

The entrance opening up to the bay

Sheer red cliffs at the entrance open up to a large land locked bay bordered by cultivated fields. Once a small fishing harbour now caters for a few tourists in summer, a lot of them in camper vans. In the winter it is a base for the tuna fishing boats.

   

Calm evening in the bay

Both Dorado & Meerkat where there when we arrived.

 

The village and the small fishing boats at dusk trawling

Wolfgang & Renate pointed us to an unused mooring buoy which they said a large yacht had been on some days prior so we picked it up. I dove down to check it and it seemed OK albeit we usually prefer and trust our own ground tackle.

Anchoring however is difficult here with the depths swinging from very deep to very shallow within a boats length. Bob and Andrea eventually left the next day because they were not happy with their anchor.

We managed to replenish our water supply again dinghy-ing ashore with the 25L jerry cans

We spent 5 nights here one of them ashore in the fish taverna recommended by Wolfgang and Renate, our tour guides.

Fish Taverna a mere dingy ride away

Mmmmm Calamari

 

Pffft…… fish restaurant for them & I get Friskies

I can smell those lovely fishies …..Aaaaargh!

On Thursday suitably fuelled up we set off to our next intended destination Thessaloniki at the very top of the Kassandra peninsula (The 1^st finger).

This off course meant retracing some of our steps, well in fact only one, Sikias. We didn’t mind because we were looking forward to going ashore for Pizza again. It’s no wonder we are not losing weight this summer!

Sunsets of beach at Sikias & Mount Athos on the Thursay Evening the calm before the storm

The Storm:

After a lazy day we set off in the dinghy towards the beach for our long anticipated pizza, when Lily attempts to descend the ladder and come with us!  We had to quickly row back to prevent her going in the water.

So we decide to put her harness on and take her with us on her lead.

We decided I would do the shopping and get a carry out pizza rather than try to sit in and Louise would “walk the cat”

  

Initially all went swimmingly (no pun intended) until dusk descended and Lily went into hunting mode, slipped her harness, did the “Sawshank” thing and bolted for freedom.

I was just returning with the pizza and the air was blue – Louise shouting “Get some treats!! Bring a bit of effing pizza!!

Lily was headed full tilt for the campsite, and if she reached it we would never have got her back. Moreover she had no scent trail to get back to the boat. Anyhow only slightly tempted with the pizza proffered by Louise she stalled for  a second, just enough for Louise to pounce, picking her up under the forepaws and running back down the beach towards the dinghy “Get it in the water !!, Get it in the effing water!!”

The now sandy pizza (minus one slice) and the shopping get hurled in the dinghy and I’m up to my waist in water awaiting arrival of said wife and wriggling cat.

Somehow we keep her in the dinghy and we head back to the boat. The BP’s are now through the roof. I thought cats were meant to calm you down, lol.

Anyhow about a couple of large glasses of wine later we settle down to have our long awaited pizza the nerves no longer quite so frazzled.

Lily of course couldn’t give a monkeys – all fun to her – and she got a bit of pizza

 

The next morning was spent transporting 55 L of diesel from the village back to the dinghy then across to the boat.

Oh what fun I had.

That night we went ashore for a wander, an ouzo aperetif and a  meal.

It would seem that its part holiday town for the Greeks and Bulgarians.

 

Being about 5 miles offshore felt a bit like Rothesay, but no Big Mags or fish & chips to be found.

   

The hills up and down which I had to lug the diesel . You can just glimpse Camira at anchor in the distance.

  

A pretty little square for ouzo’s 

Anyone seen “Blazing Saddles ?

After a lot of investigation on Trip Advisor had  Louise found the Kermit Coloured Taverna above. All meals were prepared fresh and the Mousaka was apparently the overwelmingly poular choice ……. however they only served these options at lunchtime. Night time was a la Carte so we had to make do with good ‘ol Souvlaki  – very nice it was too. We should have known when no one else was in it but the guy was very nice and apologetic ?

  

Elsewhere the cats waiting hopefully for their “a la cat” dinner too.

Next stop Nisos Ammouliani.

Lying in the NE corner of Singitikos Kolpos (You should know your Greek by now) is an island just off the Akti peninsula not far from Tripiti, the site of Xerxes canal which he built to save his fleet the dangers of rounding the Akti peninsula.He gathered his troops here before the assault on Thessaly and Attica. A few earth scars are all that remain to be seen of the canal.

 

We anchored off in a cove south of the village

   

Last night was an interim farewell as we all had our own plans albeit it was likely we would bump into one another somewhere along the way.

We wanted to go to Thessaloniki but before that there was the North of this gulf to visit. Now I was seriously on the quest for diesel and the Pilot book said that it was available in Pirgadhikia

So at 13:30 we set off the 9 or so miles to Pirgadhikia. It is a small village at the head of the gulf and a few fishing boats and pleasure craft are kept on permanent moorings here. The floating and just attached pontoons are under repair and useable at your own risk. I wouldn’t want to say here in anything but settled weather.

The little village is lovely and we had a nice meal in a modern take on Greek food type taverna.

Unfortunately the pilot book was wrong you cannot get diesel here the nearest petrol station was 12 kilometers out of the village.

     

And who did we bump into alongside the floating pontoon with us … Bob and Andrea , lol.

We had arranged for a night out at the camp site back down south, but before heading there we had a night in Ormos Dhimitriaki a bay just to the South. Bob and Andrea were leaving as we arrived but didn’t see us, Wolfgang and Renate then nicked their space, lol.

We anchored across the bay away from the beach where it was less noisy though a lee shore, the forecast winds however were very light to non-existent

   

Peaceful and with “Cat Approval”

Sunday saw a reunion back at the “laundry “camp site.

It took us 3 attempts to get the anchor to set back in our old space.

Again it was going to be a tester crossing for the outboard but, taking it slowly, we made it

Outward bound about 1/3 of the way – Camira  away in the distance behind Meerkat

      

The goings on and  ………

Return in the dark

The northernmost bay and a small village of the same name promised civilisation – a pontoon with water and electricity and a night out ashore, yippee.

 

The pontoon with the town in the distance

What the pilot didn’t say was it was a long walk around into the village and some of the other boaties had advised of a grumpy, difficult old so & so dealing with the pontoons.

As it turned out Grumpy wasn’t at all grumpy, maybe Louise just worked her charm. However it was a fair jaunt into “town” but it was worth it. The village is a wee bit touristy a bit like a small Oban in the sun. We had a lovely meal and picked up some provisions.

 

That’s it away in the distance around the head of the bay !

  

On and on it goes ………

 

C’mon nearly there

Some interesting sights though !

  

Our friends boat “Meerkat” in the next bay over

      

We only stayed one night as there was a surge all night although not dangerous it was annoying. Also we are still unsure whether to give Lily complete freedom when we are not there so we feel it’s not fair to confine her to the inside of the boat for long periods . At anchor she is free to roam the decks ,which she does at night chasing insects.

That is when shes not asleep in  her “bunk”

Today we intended moving the vast distance of 0.4 miles up to Ormos Koumaroudhes in order we could dinghy (hopefully!) across to the campsite where there was a laundry, desperately needed I have to say.

Unfortunately there was not enough room for us to anchor in the bay so I just anchored off the sand spit while Louise went ashore to do the laundry.

     

After lunch on anchor there was a further major passage of 2.0 miles up to Ormos Dhimitri where we anchored off some nice wee villas for the night.

     

A very taxing day.

Although I did take the dinghy for an evening spin of 2 miles , still running hot and cutting out , lol

Sunday 9^th June saw us leaving Sikias and heading 21 miles further north to Ormos Mesopanayia and Nisis (Island) Dhiaporos to meet up with the Meerkats & Dorado (our friends boats). After 2 hours tacking we had to put the engine on, but at least more than half the time was sailing.

There are numerous anchorages around Nisis Dhiaporos and the adjacent coast as you can see from the airphoto picture and chartlet in our Greek Waters Pilot below.

 

We  are anchored in the big bay on the left of the island (top right in the above picture). As you may be able to see it’s over a mile accoss to the mainland (at the shallowing water on the top left of the picture)

This could perhaps prove a challenge  for our temperamental, newly fixed, 2 stroke outboard! Again the only hope of provisioning, diesel etc is on the mainland. So off we set, as usual, in a cloud of blue grey fog coming from an engine sounding like it has terminal emphysema.

However we made it

   

Succesfully ashore and heading for the shopping

 

We met up with Bob and Andrea also going across to the supermarket.

Unlike the title of Bilbo Baggins’ book “There and Back Again” our engine was having none of the “Back Again” bit, so it was looking like a long row. Thankfully Bob and Andrea took pity on us and towed us back. Turned out to be a dislodged fuel line and fuel had gone .

 

Captain Chaos

Later that afternoon the usual culprits Wolfgang, Renate and ourselves where invited for drinks on Dorado, Bob and Andreas’ Westerly

   

Yes it was late and it was messy