Lampi ? – No Lurgie !

9:00 a.m. start and off up to Lampi bay just under 25 miles to the north.

On the way we heard and felt really loud explosions, turned out some sort of exercise at the other side of the Aegean near the mainland, miles away !

We dropped anchor shortly before half past one. Alone again.

It’s another beautiful setting. I had attempted two panoramic shots – the 1^st looks like some leviathan from the deep is surfacing but I have included it anyway.

Lampi Bay, Nth Patmos

There are two tavernas ashore . We are not sure if they are open. There is some movement but may just be the owners getting things ready for the season – looks like their houses are next to the tavernas so they maybe just doing the usual Greek coffee and chatting amongst themselves – not punters.

Anyhow it’s not worth all the palaver of inflating / launching / deflating the dinghy on the off-chance of lunch and we were both feeling a bit throaty & lethargic anyway.

Calm afternoon Lampi

A relaxing afternoon , dinner on board and earlyish to bed for the early start tomorrow pre dawn ! They are hellish to get up for but good once you are on the move. From the log I see the engine was on and the anchor up at 05:40.

No wind at all at the moment but hopefully it would fill in later from the south.

A medley of dawn shots Lampi

The planned passage The actual passage

The total distance to Kolpos Geras, Lesbos is just shy 0f 114 miles but with a likely stop at Oinousses Waypoint 3 just 75 miles away we planned to break it into two.

We had motored past Fourni, leaving it to starboard and there was still no wind. Furthermore both of us were now feeling pretty grotty with flu-like symptoms so we phoned Ioannis at Ormos Marina at Marathocampos on Samos so see if they had any space available for a few days. He would check with Stephan & get back to us – but we heard nothing (which in the end turned out to be a misunderstanding) so we continued onwards with the original plan. By the time we had reached the east end of Ikaria there was still no wind so we thought we will just go to Ormos and if they don’t have a space we will anchor outside or at Limmonias. In the event when we arrived they were expecting us neither had got back to us to confirm . LOL.

The journey looks, and was, a whole lot shorter but we still clocked up 30 miles and over 6 hours underway.

We tied up and after having to dive over the side to free the far too short lazy line warps that were wrapped around the prop ! we let Lily ashore and I lay down with the lurgie or as Louise calls it Man Flu .

Now I have never had Covid – always managed to dodge it – however we had some old test kits on board and guess what we both had Covid.

Mine as you can see is far more severe.

C-19 for the 1st & hopefully last time.

So it was a few days isolating on the boat for us, not mixing with anyone.

Lily on the other hand had won a watch – “shore time unlimited” for her.

Lesbos , last time ?

Now that I am back to the blog proper and writing this up after the fact I hope I have not ben too hard on Mr Blobby. However it was a stressful night and the American Trimaran Skipper who visited Louise on his dinghy had said that he (Mr Blooby) told one boat he had 50m of chain out, another 30m and another again over 40 “He appeared not to know what he had out” and “ I’m glad he wasn’t near me “

Ah well …….. All’s well that end’s well.

Panoramic view of Blefoutis after the carnage and many departures – it’s beautiful.

Its now Sunday morning and we are back off around to Lakki for the provisioning & laundry run, yet again, and to decide what our plans will be thereafter sailing wise. We tried the Genoa but with little to 5 kts of wind it was a waste of time so engine on for the 12 miles or so.

We really like Lakki, which is just as well this year , the number of visits we’ve had! It has a strange atmosphere – the architecture is Italian / Art Deco – totally understandable given the Italians were here for a while during WWII and Mussolini built himself a huge mansion across the other side of the bay. They have been continually renovating the buildings on the waterfront and seem to be eventually getting there with some, while others are falling further into disrepair.

Lily is recovering well and we have been stocking up on her favourite goodies and a few toys (which she will totally ignore after a brief sniff)

We met a Dutch couple a few years ago berthed next to us in Lipsi who after talking to us about our lifestyle took the plunge and bought a house up the hill overlooking the bay. We had been up for a visit years before just after they bought it. We met them again this year by accident in the supermarket and they now have installed a swimming pool (the last one’s allowed to do so) and now spend half the year here & loving it.

We are on 1^st name terms with the scooter rental lady, the laundrette man and I have a wee French girlfriend in the Souvlaki gyros taverna . We are recognised in the Pizza restaurant and the local “sailors bar” and the artisan butchers – it’s a telling story no ? LOL

We also have the choice of two chandlers, a place to get camping gas refills, a B&Q like outlet, a reasonably big supermarket and a number of mini’s as well, oh! and a wine cave/ merchants

So all in all not a bad place to be “stuck” for a while.

Laundry run could be coming or going not sure?

Louise ready for an evening trip ashore.

Water replenishment whilst on anchor is our biggest challenge only having 120 litre tanks. I have installed an additional 60 litre storage in plastic jerry cans under the aft seat in the cockpit you would think they were made to fit. When in Lakki I take the dinghy across to our “secret tap” outside the tennis courts to fill up – job done ! and easy to refill.

Bespoke water tanks

Whilst here I took pity on the local stray cats and whenever I can, usually when going to the laundrette or more likely having left the laundry & going for a beer!

Talking of beers – Brian & Sara arrived on their boat unexpectedly while we were here and on a still very cold night we visited their favourite gyros outlet.

Think this was when we got the lurgies, more later……………………

Trying to keep warm with Sara’s scarf

We have looked at the weather and there is a tiny weather window that maybe could allow us to travel north up to Lesvos, for what might be our last visit of all time. We have a soft spot for Scala Loutra, Mytilini & Lesbos in general, so that is the plan.

Unfortunately Xios our usual half way house on route where we normally stop for a week or so is out of bounds now as the unfinished marina we used to frequent has now been purchased. It is being developed into what looks like a super posh one. So if we do go, it will be a long one but the wind is to shift south on the 22^nd into the 23^rd so we are heading for Ormos Lampi on the North coast of Patmos to get a springboard northwards in fair winds – fingers crossed.

This will be our 1^st time anchored in Lampi.

Plan for tomorrow

Off south

Initially this year’s plan was going to be a return passage back across the Mediterranean starting mid to end April with a view to ending up for the winter in France but ultimately this didn’t happen.

Our Scottish contingent of sailing friends had, after about 10 years of thinking about it, decided this was the year to visit us and were chartering a yacht out of Kos the 1^st week in May.

That being the case we decided to take a break from full-time sailing and avoid the blistering 40 degree summer heat of July & August in Greece that’s become the norm. We luckily managed to arrange with Corinna & Ton to additionally rent “Another Day in Paradise” (the house) from mid July to mid September this year. This would also let us test what it’s like to live ashore during the summer months – because who knows where ultimately we will end up?

In reality this meant we would probably base ourselves in the Dodecanese keeping an eye out for potential weather windows to attempt a trip up to Lesbos either after the Scots’ visit or after the summer break at the house in September?

Who knows time will tell?

For now we were off!

South to Kouloura anchorage on Lipsi passing Agathonisi on the way and then Leros

You can see by the chart plotter a few others maybe have the same idea. Things are definitely getting busier & it’s only the 27^th April.

The wind in the morning was only 5 knots or so requiring help from the engine but later on it picked up and with a reefed main & full Genoa we managed a consistent 5 knots boat speed , not too bad. Underway for 7 hours at 17:00 we anchored in Kouloura Bay in 4 meters. Not another soul to be seen, the others must have gone elsewhere, maybe Agathonisi or perhaps around to the harbour at Lipsi town quay.

On passage to Lipsi warm enough in the sun …………

But ……… it was still cold when the sun disappeared not time yet to stow the winter woollies!

After a couple of nights on anchor it was off to Lakki, Leros. At 11.00 it was overcast and brisk. We left in gusts of 17 knots and quite lumpy seas. Once through the relatively sheltered passage between Archangelos (island) and Leros the wind had filled in some more – now a steady 23 knots gusting higher. We were surfing down the waves on the west side of Leros heading for the entrance of Lakki. When we arrived not unexpectedly it was quite busy but we found a wee spot to anchor.

Nicolas arrived with the new owner, boat delivered to the marina. He was staying on it for his final few days. The only thing for him to do was pick up the balance of the final payments (4 undated cheques) from the French Guy who had now decamped to his house in Aghia Marina. He had lent Nicolas his scooter so I hired one as well and headed off with him to pick up his money in Aghia Marina, then a scoot around to Gourna Bay, then down to Xirocambpos for lunch and finally back to Lakki. Its not a big island and you can go from one end to the other in jig time.

Aghios Marina & 1st coffee stop

Gourna Bay & small church almost in the rocks

Xirocampos for aperitifs

We had a night out with Nicolas, Eric & Beatrice, other French sailing friends. They are from Brittany and Eric loves his Scottish Whisky.

Nicolas’ last night saw us visiting the pizza restaurant and the patisserie before he said his final good byes to Greece and boarded the overnight ferry to Athens for his flight back home to France the next day.

Final eateries & a cold night

Au revoir !

The weather has been pretty miserable by Greek standards and so we were worried for the week’s yacht charter by our friends.

Arriving in Kos and meeting us in Leros would not be too much of a problem as the winds were southerly, but some of the contingent were not sailors and initially had preferred to be berthed up each night as opposed to anchoring.

These considerations meant their area to sail and stop was almost totally limited to Lakki, Leros with a couple of nights in Kalymnos, which we had recommended to break up the initial and return passages.

Stopping there on the buoys, provided by the tavernas, however allowed the non-sailors to gain their confidence & after getting their sea legs enjoyed a few nights at anchor as well. We met them on arrival in Leros , their 1^st stern to mooring at Lakki quay which they handled no bother. That night we all went to “Sou V lakki” a gyros based taverna just along from the town quay. Needless to say a few jugs of wine were demolished and the following gyros discovered.

Unfortunately for them the wind continued on a settled southerly course with some strong winds forecast which made it difficult to find alternative safe harbours to moor up in.

However after Lakki we headed around to Blefoutis, a sheltered bay on the other side of Leros for a couple of days at anchor .

Short but pretty passage for the charterer’s around to Blefoutis

While there Louise and the others hired taxis to visit Aghia Marina and have lunch, while I stayed on boat watch with Lily, so at least they got to see a bit (well most) of the island before they decided to start back down to Kos again in plenty of time for another night on Kalymnos.

It wasn’t the greatest weather for them but they enjoyed it all never the less.

Neil piping us abord

At anchor on their boat in Blefoutis – later on we might have been a bit noisy !

Visit to Allindi/ Aghios Marina

Goodbyes

After they had gone we headed back round to Lakki again to stock up, get water, laundry etc. This was to prove all to regular this year I can now speak “Lakkinese”

There are a few walks around Leros, this is one, nice to stretch your legs off the boat sometimes.

A circular walk on the Sunday before our return to Blefoutis tomorrow for the “vet run”

We had discovered a lump on Lily’s back and had visited the vet in Lakki for a diagnosis on the 9^th May. He felt it was probably OK but best to remove it & see. Unfortunately he wasn’t available until 15^th May the following week when unfortunately a really strong southerly was forecast so we had to head around to Blefoutis yet again ! Louise had organised a car to be delivered from a lady we had used before & she took Lily for her op. Luckily after testing it was benign.

Lily in Blefoutis Bay pre ………….

………..… & post op, recovering

The weather is absolutely terrible this year now culminating in storm “Innes” which required staying on anchor in Blefoutis for 5 days. Ashore later for a walk after it had calmed a bit we heard from another crew that only 5 boats (us one of them) out of 13 held with others repeatedly dragging their anchors in the middle of the night, and 5 actually leaving in 40+ knot winds.

I note from the blog I had “penned” a record at the time on the laptop in which I had attempted to humourise the potentially dangerous series of events that occurred during our enforced 5 day stay in Blefoutis . It has a separate posting under “Mr Blobby”

Mr Blobby

Well its been a long couple of nights culminating in storm Innes last night.

I have to admit this morning the thought of not getting rolled out of bed and then back in again and using a toilet that doesn’t move is very appealing.

Rather, to wake up, wander through to the lounge with a sausage sandwich, a mug of builder’s tea and watch what James Martin was cooking up for Saturday lunch / dinner on TV seems idyllic.

But its now Saturday evening.

All is calm again & I have returned from doing some admin ashore on the laptop. Louise had meanwhile been talking to an American skipper on a boat anchored in the bay whose thoughts of the storm and the antics of one particular boat in particular had mirrored mine.

So here’s a précis of events that, while definitely not funny at the time, now with the adrenaline rush having come down, goes a long way to produce the giggles, in me at least, and possibly cathartic into the bargain!

You do however have to have imagine the character MR BLOBBY

I enclose a URL for those who wish to have the full immersive experience, LOL.

Press Ctrl & Click link below:

Mr Blobby’s Official Home on YouTube

From what I remember he was from the Noel Edmonds show. He was like a blow up manikin figure that was pink and …..well ……blobby. All he ever said was “Blobby, Blobby, Blobby “ and then jumped on people. He ranged from being mildly annoying to completely aggravating.

Further, imagine for speech a Dutch version of Sean Connery and you’ll not be too wide of the mark.

I’m in the bay alone not another soul, Louise is away in a hire car with Lily at the vet and we have moved here well in advance for protection from a severe storm forecasted to start the following evening.

Not a soul – no other boats

A boat appears, and like a magnet makes a beeline for me, despite having an enormous bay to chose from.