Buggerru & Portoscuso

We then headed for Buggerru; well we had too didn’t we? …… apart from which we were under orders from our pal Susan that she wanted a post card sent to her from there.

This is in the Costa Verde a dramatic and deserted coast line.

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On the drive South flocks of small birds for some reason diced with death in front of the car. Perhaps it was a bit like dolphins riding the bow wave, perhaps it was fun for them?

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Aye sand always goes between your toes

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Buggerru in the distance

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Bugger me what panoramic view leaving Buggerru.

We were then off to Cala Domestica

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Although not prepared, Louise couldn’t resist the beautiful water in the bay. Bear in mind this is still 28th January

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Our last place to visit on the way back to Cagliari was Portoscuso where we had planned to get the ferry across to Caloforte, just across from Calasetta where we had first landed in Sardinia last year with Susan .Unfortunately the ferry times just didn’t work out for us so we just had a wee look around Portoscuso and a coffee before driving back to the boat in Cagliari

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Back in time for cocktails in the Antioch cafe in Cagliari

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Capo Caccia, & Bosa

West of Alghero across the bay of Porto Conte, the panoramic coast road takes you to Capo Cacia.

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Just before the tip of the promontory a road leads to Escala di Cabirol, a dramatic stairway of 656 steps down to the Grotto di Nettuno.

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The pictures that follow just don’t do it justice, for those of you who have read Lord of the Rings , think of the Dwarves Halls under the mountain.

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Once again we had this completely to ourselves! Magic

We then headed to Bosa .Castello Malaspina towers above the old town of Sa Costa.

It is a maze of alleyways and tumbledown houses. On the left bank of the Temo are abandoned tanning buildings ,19th century travellers who praised the beauty of Bosa also mentioned the foul smell of the tanneries who used a mixture of water & dog poo in their processes.

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Castlesardo & Santa Teresa Gallura

Castlesardo & Santa Teresa Gallura

Next stop was Castlesardo a drive along the North Coast of Sardinia, a fortress village perching on a high promontory

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It is famous for basket weaving and formerly formed the occupation of almost every female in town.

On the road out there is a rock formation that looks like an elephant

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The countryside is very mountainous and not unlike certain parts of Scotland, especially on a dull day like today.

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From Castlesardo we headed as far East as we planned by to travel car (the remainder was going to be covered by boat once we set off again in the Spring).

Santa Teresa Gallura. The Northern tip of Sardinia is buffeted by the Mistrale resulting in strange rock formations. The resort of St Teresa looks across to Corsica, one of our destinations later on this year. You can see it in the distance across the Bonifacio Strait.

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Santa Teresa is pretty, the oldest part dates from the 1800’s but expanded into a holiday resort in the 1960’s. Off season it is quiet but come the summer will be teeming with tourists. I think we are lucky to see these places when quiet.

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The rock strewn coast and Bonifacio straits in the distance

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Stintino

Next day we headed for Stintino which sits on a peninsula at the Northwest tip of Sardinia. Originaly a peaceful fishing village founded by 45 families who were exiled from neighbouring Asinara Island in 1855 when the latter was given over to a penal colony & quarantine station. clip_image002 clip_image004 clip_image006 clip_image008 Stintino used to be a major fishing centre renowned for the annual mattanza or tuna massacre. The practice was abandoned in 1974 by which time tuna migration routes had changed. Further South where we 1st arrived in Sardinia, Carloforte it is still practiced every end of May. clip_image010 clip_image012 Two miles North of Stitino is Pelosa beach, which we had to ourselves at that time of year. It is a Caribbean like expanse of white sand with blue green water. Offshore a ruined Aragonese watchtower dominates the island of Piana clip_image014

Alghero

We hired a car and toured the North & West of the Island.

Our 1st stop was Alhgero one of Sardinia’s most beautiful medieval cities. Set on the NW coast facing Spain the Genoese were overthrown by the Aragonese, the Sardinians fled and the town populated by Catalans. The town remained in Spanish hands for four centuries. It still retains its Spanish heritage in its monuments and the Catalan names of its streets as well as Catalan style seafood dishes served in many restaurants.

The marina is massive affair and I think would be a bit more touristy than Cagliari, but I liked it though I imagine it would be very busy during July & August

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On our 1st night we arrived at dusk and had a walk around the old Genoese fortress from the middle ages.

We ate in the Marco polo restaurant just inside its battlements.

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Winter in Cagliari, Sardinia

I think our last blog was in October 2015 after we decided to pitch up in Marina di Saint Elmo Cagliari for the winter and a very nice winter it was. Here are some of the pictures we took.

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Views from Monte Urpinu Hill. Poetto and the Devils’ saddle are in the distance. The Devils’ saddle is, according to legend, where Mr D and the angels had a tussle; we think the pointy bit is meant to be his beard.

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Cagliari centre, the old town rises up the hill

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Cagliari Town

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Cycle / walkway back to marina in the distance

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Views from Bonaria church

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The above are of the Castello sector of the city including the Roman amphitheatre

The marina was very quiet, not many other liveaboards. The only others were a French couple Frank and Annie, who we had occasional turn about nights on each other’s boats for vin rouge.

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and Armando, an Italian from Milan. However, there were always comings and goings from people from other yachts that were down for a few days or others who had left their boats there for the winter and would pop out for a break now and then. We also got friendly with Otti & Rosi and some

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of the other liveaboards from the marina next to us and had a few good nights out with them as well.

We decided we needed bikes; the marina was a good twenty five minute walk to the supermarket which is fine going, but on the way back loaded up it was a different story. Andrea who worked at the marina managed to get hold of a couple of second hand bikes for a total of eighty Euros, however within the first few days we had to buy a new chain, a tyre inner and puncture repair kit along with a rivet extractor for changing the chain, so all in all they probably cost us about 120 Euros. The best 120 Euros we spent, even although my brakes didn’t work. We loved them

Over the course of the winter we did around 1,200 – 1,400 miles. These weren’t all to the supermarket you understand. We would go down to the beach front which was 8 kilometres long, round to Poetto harbour, through the parks, out to some of the outlying villages, Marinas forts, and the Sella Diablo, the Devils Saddle.

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There was the Carrefour Chain Saw Massacre incident. Having cycled 12 Km to the supermarket & loaded up the cheep chain we have bought in the Chinese shop refused to budge. Gordon spent an hour and 7 blades sawing through the think, I tried not to laugh too much.

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That was a hoot the day we went to climb the Sella Di Diablo. We met an ex Special Services guy who was out for a run but very kindly showed us the way to the top of the Devils Saddle – this was of course done at Special Services guys’ speed,- gosh, I thought I was quite fit. Mmmm, maybe not.

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Sella Di Diabalo

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View down to Marina Picolo and Poetto beach

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Poetto Beach in November!!

We decided not to go home for Christmas so this was our first experience of Christmas aboard. Although we missed family, we still had a really nice time. No stress on the day, in fact we went out for our usual cycle and a play in the swing park before heading back to the boat for Christmas dinner followed by our own motown party and dancing.

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We also celebrated our twenty fifth Wedding Anniversary this year. Well done….I’m not sure who deserves the medal. (Editor’s note deffy – me)

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Anniversary Breakfast

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Anniversary Lunch

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Anniversary Dinner

We spent New Year with friends Otti, Rosie, Gary and Lyn and a few others in the next marina, Marina del Sole, where we partied into the wee small hours.

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We even managed not to break our first New Year’s resolution which was to go swimming in the sea on New Year’s Day, chilly let me say, but Rosie’s Gluwein helped thaw us out afterwards.

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It is a lovely island with lovely people who do take a bit of time to open up to you but when they do, they are so warm and welcoming, like our Sardinian friends :

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Valeria who we met at Poetto and works in Cork

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and Federica, who we met at her family’s wine “filling station” She wants to go to Scotland in February time, so if anyone requires a helping hand she is looking for any kind of work for a month, please send me a text, she’s a lovely girl.