Monday 30^th June

Well it’s been a longish haul down to Symi and having got here what were we going to do next ?

Given we have ADIP (the house in Samos) booked from the 17^th July, did it make sense to continue further west to perhaps Astipalea (Butterfly of the Aegean) or just start to head back?

In a way the sad passing of Dave Milne helped make up our minds.

We would start heading back up to Kos where Louise would fly home for his funeral. I would take the boat from Kos to (good old) Leros. Louise would fly back to Kos after the funeral, then get the ferry to Leros where I would pick her up.

Having come this far however, a day trip into Symi town seemed obligatory. We have been before. There’s not a lot of places we haven’t visited at some point or other . We have now been sailing in Greece since 2017 so repeat visits are just part & parcel of that.

We didn’t expect the visit into town to be quite as short as it turned out though.

The bus times from Panormitis are not brilliant and the taxi price is just downright ridiculous. You have departures from Panormitis at either 07:00 in the morning which means getting up about 06:00 to get ready & row ashore. ( Nicolas wasn’t impressed the last time I remember !) or at 11:00 BUT the return bus is either at 13:00 or 16:00.

We had plumped for the 11:00 in and the 16:00 back but when we got there it was so hot and busy we couldn’t be bothered hanging around – it was tourist hell. We both decided let’s just pick up some provisions , grab a kebab and head back to the peace of Panormitis, which is what we did. Back on the bus at 13:00. LOL

It is lovely but, we’ve been there, done it, and bought the tee shirt I’m afraid.

We did have time to get some shots of the town .

Symi town approach from the bus

Symi town

Louise waiting for our carry out Gyros – they were very good!

’The way the boats were bouncing on the quay was borderline dangerous. We can’t show the video clips on the blog but we wouldn’t want to be berthed there – couldn’t anyway – not suitable for Lily with the main road feet away and a noisy busy town she might get lost in!

View of Panormitis from the bus on the way back

Lily cool as, well a cat ! hanging nonchalantly off the back to welcome us back.

Some lovely views from the Taverna , Panormitis, across the bay

So, say you calculate from Leros (our centre of Greek civilisation this year), we will have completed a return trip  of around 160 miles and 35 hours underway for a 1 hour dash around Symi town , LOL

Ah well what else would we be doing  – daytime TV?  Blue skies & sunshine – no contest, but we admit we are looking forward to some land based time this summer back at ADIP.

Thursday 26th June

After so much variable weather it looked like, for a few days at least, which is about all you can realistically rely on, some settled winds from the NW direction were forecast.

Today’s plan was to head down to Pserimos, an island just north of Kos.

We normally head for a sandy bay at the east end with clear water and good holding. Its nearness to Kos means that during the day you have  numerous little motorboats hired by visiting holidaymakers. Some of the seas around here can really fetch up. It can be quite a windy spot off Kos and although as I say its only about 8-10 miles to Kos town I wouldn’t fancy being in one of these wee things and trying to get back if the weather changed.

Like today !

We set off in a steady 10 knots around 10:00. I see from the logbook by 11:00 it was up to 15 knots. We were having a nicely balanced sail downwind & just before 13:00 it was a steady 20 knots gusting more. By the time we reached our planned anchorage it was over 25 knots. We had to gybe twice to to clear a couple of tankers before continuing into a very windy bay. It was a fast approach and needed some thought to get the sails down & pick a spot. There were a couple of boats in close in to capitalise on the shelter but we managed to find a reasonable spot too.

It was a great sail and in the just over 4 hours underway only 30 minutes on engine at the start & 15 at the end laying the anchor.

Unfortunately no pictures but if you imagine a brisk, blowy, dull Clyde day you won’t be too far wrong.

However I was. We had expected favourable winds to get us southwards but instead the next day we woke up to blue skies and no wind at all!

Friday 27^th June.

50 miles to go to reach Panormitis, a landlocked bay on Symi.

We set off at 07:30 fingers crossed for some wind. It was not to be.

At 09:00  we were motor sailing abeam of Kos town approaching the marina. (Wpt 1). After rounding the SE of Kos at AK Fokas, (Wpt2)  we headed for the end of the Datcha peninsula. (Wpt 3)  Now strictly speaking we shouldn’t be doing this but we fancied a close look at the Turkish coast. At 12:00 we were almost in the little harbour around the corner at Devboynu point. (Wpt4)

Thankfully no approach from the Turkish Coastguard, if they had seen the Greek courtesy flag they might have come for a look.

Turkish waters

Still no wind and it was a further long hot 36 miles to Symi. The alternator is playing up. It’s not charging for some reason until I fiddle with the connections. It may be the extreme heat ? will need to investigate.

At 17:15 we finally reached Panormitis and dropped anchor. It had been a long hot day, time for a dip.

Panormitis is a lovely place but there’s not much ashore other than the monastery , a café, bakery and one taverna. It’s more or less owned by the monastery. During the day the ferry and trip boats come around from Symi town crammed full of visitors for the Monastery, which is well worth a visit. We have been in years past.

Ferry boat and a panoramic picture of the bay

 There are small basic cell like rooms along the cloisters that we think you can rent for a retreat sort of thing.

Sleepy quiet place when the visitors have gone.

In the late in the afternoon during the siesta I sneak ashore to fill my jerry cans with water from behind the monastery from a very ornate tap. I’ll be going to the bad fire. That said I’m sure if I was caught by the head monk they would surely be  be charitable no ? It’s in the teachings after all.

Isn’t it amazing that the light from the moon reaches all the way to reflect off the top of that boat’s mast eh? LOL

At night the lighting on the monastery is quite spectacular

After 11 days in Lakki we were doing the small jump down to Kalymnos.

The south end of Leros at Xirocambos virtually touches the north end of Kalymnos. They are separated by a channel and a number of small islets. It is through these islets at wpt3 we pass and then down the east coast of Kalymnos to Palionisis.

This is the same spot we recommended to our visiting charter friends. There are two sets of buoys ,each belonging to their respective tavernas, and the done thing is to eat in the taverna whose buoy you have picked up. For some reason or other we have always gone to the same one. We hadn’t booked so it was pot luck if we would get in. If not we would just continue on. As it turns out there were plenty vacant with no reserved signs when we arrived.

Panorama of the whole anchorage

The sail itself was mixed with 11 knots of wind from the NW and then variable in direction. However we managed to use both the sails and were underway for just under 4 hours, about half the time having to use the engine to motor sail.

Landing pontoon

The taverna whilst still good and a great view has gone up in price a bit – we are in June right enough & normally we would be early or late in the season here, maybe the prices change for the charter boats coming in .

Views from our taverna & the other one is across the way

It’s a nice spot and good to have a change so we stayed here for two nights.

Friday 13^th 08:00 anchor up and heading back to Lakki.

There was a good steady wind from the NW of 20 knots, gusting more, and a perfect direction for a brisk downwind sail to Leros about 22 miles away.

The waves were a lot bigger than forecast but no matter as we were surfing down them in the same direction. However that all came to an end around 10:00 when the wind died to only 4 knots which was not expected, leaving us with a very lumpy sea and an uncomfortable 2 knots SOG, so unfortunately the sail we were looking forward to came to an end and the engine was on.

We arrived to a very busy anchorage presumably all hiding from this strange weather. Unusually it took us two attempts to set the anchor but in the end we were more or less where we normally stop. It’s a wee bit close if it goes southerly but the holding is great.

George & Barbara and Mike’s boats were already here a few days since.

G&B’s lovely Bowman – Pipe Dream

Mike’s big Moody was even closer in than us. Fingers crossed for not a lot of south wind, pointless that proved though – it is Friday 13^th after all ! and yes it did go south.

Stern facing into the shore but relatively calm at the moment

We were OK as you can see from the night-time picture, almost right across from Souvlaki , I could have shouted my order in, but psychologically you are always happier when not on a lee shore.

Mike could almost have stepped of the small jetty and on to his boat ! LOL

We thought it was going to be a quick provisioning, fill up with water, laundry, supermarket etc. (AND pizza) before our mini passage down to Symi.

It was not to be, the weather kept us, and everyone else, pinned down for 11 days.

You’ll now understand my comments in an earlier post about time spent here this year.

We had a few more nights out with George, Mike & Barbara.

Mike & George on “Pipe Dream” Beer ’o clock before dinner.

We hired a bike to visit Allindi , on the other side of the island, where there is a new pontoon, as yet not officially opened, but as is the norm in Greece a number of boats are already in residence. There would be enough space but it is just off the main road so preferably for Lily one of the buoys purportedly owned by To Steki , a taverna on the waterfront would be better.

We went in for a drink to find out the situation. The owner indeed have a buoy that we were welcome to use but he had not serviced it this year and recommended in calm weather only. The Taverna itself gets a great write up so we may well visit at some point.

Allindi Bay Views

To Steki Taverna

On a sadder point when out walking on day we happened upon a wee kitten lying in the middle of the road up near the back of the town. We think she was blind & dehydrated. We left her some food and water and the next day returned armed with newly purchased gardening gloves, a box and a free loan of a scooter from the lady in our scooter place. We had planned to try to capture her and take her to the vet, but she was nowhere to be found. Hopefully her mother found her & is looking after her.

Watching Taxiarchis ( the local bulk carrier) slowly making her way between the anchored vessels to berth at the quayside and the big Blue Star ferry doing the same at the other side was a regular voyeur sport.

Taxiarchis – gently manoeuvring alongside

Blue Star reversing in on the other hand doesn’t take prisoners

On a beautiful walk out towards the distant entrance to the bay there is a sombre plaque reminding us this was not always so serene a place.

One of the positives for Lily here is the supermarket stocks her favourite treats which she goes absolutely crazy for at her feeding times.

“Kalimera – is that the pet shop, can you send some treats these B’s don’t feed me”

This is her stock of goodies  – belying the above plea, but  now I have nowhere to stow my goodies.

Having the bike was great. We could head into town or wherever whenever we felt like it.

A typical night would see us heading into Scala for a wander, an aperitif in the square followed by dinner in one of the many tavernas available. As is usual for us we had found one we liked and kept going back.

Scala main square & surroundings

A favourite taverna

Although I had been up to the chora before, I had not visited the cave of the apocalypse.

Off we go in the morning from Livadhia

The Cave is traditionally believed to be the place where Saint John the Theologian received the visions recorded in the Book of Revelation. It sits halfway between Skala and chora.

Saint John was exiled to Patmos around 95 AD under Emperor Domitian.

Inside this cave, he is said to have heard the divine voice dictating the text of Revelation, which his disciple Prochorus wrote down.

The only divine voice I heard was the priest at the door asking for the admittance fee.

Chora is lovely as witnessed by the following scenes – this is where Albert of “Albert & Thomas” fame , our French friends who will be hosting part of our stay in France next year owns a house.

Colourfull Chora

View down to Scala Patmos and our anchorage top right in the far distance

After a bit of exploring & a coffee stop we headed off to Grikos Bay.

Coffee stop in chora

View down to Grikos

Just across from the islet, on the mainland side of the bay, is Kalikatsou Rock, which was used as a hermit’s dwelling in early Christian times.

There are carved niches, steps, and small chambers inside the rock. It’s believed to have been a place of ascetic retreat, similar in spirit to the Cave of the Apocalypse but not directly connected to Revelation.

Our revelation was that the main access route to Grikos bay was blocked by a cement mixer so it was an interesting return back up the hill to find another route. Well done Penelope Pit Stop. LOL

We had swung by here on the boat a few years before and wondered about stopping but didn’t. You can pick up a rental buoy but in effect turns you are quite far out from Scala and the only restaurants seem to be hotel based and extremely expensive.

Grikos Bay & old man Grikos himself

It was now too late for lunch so we headed down the wine roads to Petra but again didn’t get too far as the surface became a bit a bit off roadish.

Fun and OK for me by Louise wasn’t to keen 

Can’t blame her though, gravel rash would be sore in the event of a spill only wearing shorts & tee shirts.

So back into Scala and a drink in the square before heading back to the anchorage.

George, Mike & Barbara had arrived in tour absence ………….

George & Barbara anchored behind us

…………  so we arranged to meet at the taverna above the anchorage for dinner,

excellent end to the day.

They were staying around these locales for a bit (idling time before needing to get to Kos for the party) We asked if they would like to hire bikes the next day and join us , but Barbara is not too keen on two wheels.

Next day we headed off to Lampi  (The bay we had anchored off a few weeks before our aborted attempt to head to Lesbos) By now the two tavernas were open and we plumped for the 2^nd one along. A very nice man.George Orfanadis  who was eating in the taverna came to our table and recommended some dishes. He told us he had a house in a bay nearer to Scala. We knew it well . He invited us for coffees later in the week. Louise would have loved to have gone. The house and gardens are fantastic. Unfortunately the weather changed for the worst and we didn’t want to leave the boat unattended and had to phone him to cancel. Next time maybe ?

That’s George at the table behind Louise.

So that was a brief précis of our weeks “holiday” on Patmos.

It’s a lovely island.

I will have fond memories of the view & quietness of that anchorage

On our last night we had a strawberry moon .

Wednesday 4^th June 2025

We left at 08:30 in calm weather just a zephyr.

After looking at the forecasted winds & weather we had discounted trying to get up to Lesbos at this time. It’s a wee bit disappointing but perhaps we may be able to go later in September?

The alternative plan then was to go south.

We had thought as far as Crete (170-190 nm) but after talking to Bob & Andrea who are based in Aghios Nikolas we decided against that as well. They have been waiting three weeks to try to get North to Kos where a small flotilla was heading, including Barbara, George & Mike for Mike’s 60^th birthday bash later in June. We were invited but even my liver wouldn’t keep up! I think from memory about 10 boats are heading to Kardamilla for a week’s celebrations.

In the end we decided on Symi, down to the south east very near Turkey. Although we could possibly get stuck on Crete with a strong Meltemi blowing straight down the Aegean from the north of Greece, there is a bit more shelter from the islands over at Symi allowing us to get back northwards.

Today however we were heading just under 25 miles down to Patmos.

Overall passage

Detail of the sheltered bay at Livadhia Geranou

By 09:30 the wind had got up a little to 11 – 12 knots which allowed slow progress but a pleasant enough sail to Livadhia Geranou, a favourite anchorage of ours at the east end of Patmos. I see from the log we arrived at 14:15, 15 minutes shy of six hours underway.

Mt. Kerkis on Samos on our way to Patmos

It is a big lump of rock! and is responsible for the fierce katabatic winds at Ormos when the meltemi is blowing. It can be seen from Patmos & the other distant islands.

You can see from the chart  above that Scala Patmos (Patmou) the main town was a wee bit away from our anchorage. Normally we would travel in and out in taxis but their prices have rocketed so we considered a longer term scooter hire which would be far cheaper and give us some flexibility to visit areas of the island we hadn’t before.

We planned to stay a while as the timetable was such that we had the house booked from 17^th July so enough time to leisurely sail around the Dodecanese.

We thought we would need to visit Scala to arrange the hire, however to our surprise when we phoned the guy he arrived in a car picked us up , took us back to the main drag and sorted us out with an almost new bike. He also said at the end of the hire just to leave it at the taverna and he would arrange to pick it up. Brilliant service no ?

A few panorama shots of the anchorage , the last from the taverna.

What a view eh?

In the end it took Louise a while to shake the effects of C19, maybe because she had had it before a few years ago back in London? I was OK after about two days or so.

A nice marina, good facilities though only two showers. A pretty setting.

Pictures of the marina from Camira

It has a number of shoreside tavernas and more available nearby a short walk into Kampos or, if you are feeling more energetically inclined, a climb on  a steepish path up the hill to Marathocampos. So you are spoiled for choice for eating out. Throw in a reasonable supermarket, a good local beach that you can jump off one of the harbour walls to reach then Ormos isn’t a bad place to rest up.

Ormos village & the marina in the distance.

Some dodgy characters though.

It didn’t take Louise too long to get her appetite back.

Post Covid Cake

A few of the tavernas we visited the last being one of our favourites if a wee bit more expensive with great views

There was a lovely wee boat berthed just along from us. Initially I thought it was wooden but talking to the owner found out it was in fact steel, great lines.

In comparison look at these two big catamarans below.  Now I’ve nothing against your choice of boat – we are all sailors after all – but this is the way things seem to be going, less space available in marinas, for example I think you could get a minimum of 6 boats in the space of the two cats.

More irritating however is the decreased possibilities for anchoring in some of the more popular bays. If you only have even have a few of these in – that’s it . Normally we are so small we can usually manage to sneak in but I have seen lots of others having taken a look needing to move on & find elsewhere. Nicolas, Louise & I have said it before but we think we have been lucky to have seen the best. It’s getting far busier now with far bigger craft. That’s life……cue Ester.

There are some nice walks and run routes for Louise now she’s up to it.

Surrounding countryside at Ormos, Mt. Kerkis in the distance.

On one particular night out to the local “hotel” taverna I managed to swipe the following glass of red completely over Louise. This is her having returned from the facilities after a clean up attempt.

We still hadn’t ordered !  Think the face tells the story.

Clock the picture below and spot the cat, our cat !  If you can.

The woman on board was OK with, & liked, cats but wasn’t overly keen on them visiting her on her boat. We had told her, as we do everyone, “If Lily appears & you don’t want her aboard please just chase her away”. She usually only does a quick nosey & then leaves anyway. Not this time, I looked up early one evening and just spotted her ! There she is above the owner, who is blissfully ignorant of a Lily napping above her without a care in the world.

We kept shtum in the hope she would sneak off unseen.

It’s always difficult to get the momentum to leave Ormos but had planned to do so on the 3^rd June but two things happened: George & Barbara arrived on their Bowman and her nibs was sleeping on another unattended boat and we couldn’t get her off !

So without too much arm twisting we stayed one more day and had a night out with George Barbara & Mike. Copious jugs of wine included.

George , Barbara & Mike

The next morning – cat locked in -no escaping, Louise suffering a “sore heid “ and swearing off the wine, again, we finally managed to escape port Velcro after a very enjoyable 13 days.