For some years now we have been trying on numerous people’s recommendations to visit Koufenisia, described as Caribbean like. See big arrow below

Each time we have tried we have failed for one, weather reason, or another. Last time we got close anchored in a bay on Kata Koufenisia the island just south west of the main island with a view to making the “summit attempt” the next day, but the swell and the wash from the numerous ferries made the afternoon untenable so we beat an escape back to Nisos Schoinousa , the furthest left island above.

However in the bay earlier that afternoon  a Greek “Day Trip” boat arrived with about 12 or more people on board  presumably for a trip to the beach & a swim. It was a Moody 28 and the guy was so excited about seeing & chatting with us that he totally forgot his customers and had to hurry away when they started getting the hump . It would’ve been good to catch up in the harbour the next day as arranged but unfortunately not to be.

So with the best intentions, yet again this year, on Saturday 25^th May we set off for Koufenisia by way of a small bay south of Despotiko / Antiparos, then Kalantos on Naxos and finally Koufenisia.

The 1^st part of the trip went as planned sailing most of the way down the channel between Paros and Antiparos. The only down side was being forced to tack by the small ferry plying between Paros & Antiparos either that or sailing far to close to a submerged reef. Power gives way to sail …..who told you that ,LOL, malaka!!

Anyway no harm done, after birling around we continued our sail to the small bay to the south of Despotiko and anchored for the night. Only us and a small rib for company & that left later in the evening.

Small bay on the South coast of Despotiko

Sunday 26^th May

Anchor up and heading for Kalantos or Koufenisia direct, we would decide later. The sky was very overcast only 14 knots at the moment but more expected soon so with 2 reefs in just in case we set off.

After 5 hours underway 4 and a bit tacking to towards our goal we decided on Kalantos Bay on the south of Naxos for the night. We knew it would be windy in the bay but safe as we had visited before, (sounds familiar eh?, LOL)

At anchor in just under 5 m, dinghy blown up we headed ashore to have dinner in the “Kantina”, a rough & ready taverna up the hill. It was still overcast and cold as you can see by the jerseys , even the cat was covered up .The weather wasn’t any better the next day so we stayed put hoping for improvement.

Kalantos , bay south of Naxos

Tuesday 28^th May

However on the Tuesday still suffering a swell in the bay from the heavy winds we gave up again and decided to head back this time to the big bay & anchorage between Antiparos & Despotika. Part of the way back a loud crack frightened the wits ( for want of a better description) out of us. The Genoa furling block had snapped in two.

Any how we made it safely into Ormos (Bay) Despotiko and anchored on the south side. A very nice anchorage.

Despotiko Bay between Antiparos & Despotiko

Lily enjoying her toys in Despotiko Bay

………  So thinking hats on  …..

Unable to head where we had intended , comfortably at the moment , what’s the plan ?

Let’s head back north and perhaps visit Andros a new island wooo hooo.

So Thursday 30^th May

Saw us back in Paroika at anchor after a lovely downwind sail using only the Genoa,

After doing the dinghy ferry run to fill up the water tanks and then provisioning up at the supermarket , I volunteered going back ashore to get a carry-out pizza . (Well you have to take the chance when you can)

Friday 31^st May

Heading North  again today.

We are back in Finnikas, Siros . From the log it started out a very nice sail at 5 knots but descended into a bit of a motor-sail slog, the worst passage sailing wise for what has been a good sailing season so far re having to resort to engine.

Nicolas was still here so some more aperitifs walks and meals had to be had.

Finnikas, Siros

Friday 17^th May.

Now heading around to Paroika Bay, Paros. It’s all of just over 10 miles so we towed the dinghy behind us for the short trip. We don’t do that a lot. I must be getting lazy! The entrance to the bay boasts some ferocious rocks and a number of shipwrecks have happened here in the past with a lot of lives lost on one particular ferry disaster.

Our Navman equipment is giving up the ghost bit by bit. I had installed the whole suite of instruments shortly after buying the boat, comprising chart plotter, VHF radio, depth, wind & speed instruments and the proprietary Navbus which allowed all the readouts to be shown on the chart plotter. Now we are reduced to the chart-plotter, speed & depth on the Navman front.

Further, on the way around to Paroika the Navman depth instrument also headed for Davy Jone’s locker. We had replaced the Navman wind with a Clipper one previously. Clipper is a basic but adequate UK brand. Being my usual OCD self I wanted at least some conformity and so was lucky to source a Greek supplier of the Clipper instrument I wanted. He arranged to send the replacement by ferry to Paros.

So looks like we will be here until it arrives and I swap the old one out.

Its not a bad place to be stuck. Its very chic and again plenty of pics the last time so only a few this time around.

…..and Louise managed to find an acceptable hairdressers.

Turned out to be a week exactly to have completed the installation & be ready to leave.

This is where we would split from Nicolas who was heading back northwards to Siros to pick up his “GM” holidaymakers.

Leaving Paroika bay

The infamous rocks easily visible , today !

Thursday 9^th May sees Syeni & Camira heading back to Siros for the onward passage to Paros a few days later whenever the fancy takes us. A bit overcast today , motor sailing with the full main, I gambled rounding the North of Kithnos instead of the South which was a mistake and it became a bit of a motor slog for us , much to the amusement of the French contingent who DID go South.

Tuesday 14^th May. After more visits into Ermopoulis, Siros and local explorative walks ashore at Fikkiada we set off South 28 nm to Naousa on Paros . From the log I see we were underway for 6 ours arriving at 14:00 in the afternoon with an hour and a half of engine so a reasonable amount of sailing today.

Passage Siros to Paros

Anchorage at Plastira Bay a few rocks and shoals to watch for

We had been to Naousa before but further north in the big bay way too far out of town! This time on the recommendation of Nicolas we were anchored in Ormos Plastira just SW of Naousa Town .There are a couple of tavernas and bars ashore and a ferry or bus into  town. Very peaceful except for the peacocks!.

Still a bit overcast but it’s to clear up later.

Nicolas on Syeni behind us

Naoussa town in the distance

A couple of days here saw us taking the ferry into Naousa proper for a day out.

Think I’ll maybe start up a ferry business it wasn’t cheap but still a fun way to arrive.

The ferry arriving to pick us up

Note the ever-present rubbish bag being taken ashore

Awaiting our return trip

I’ve purposefully not included a lot more scenic shots from the town as we have loads in a previous blog but just enough to flavour the taste buds again! It is a lovely place, and we really like the anchorage though not sure how good it would be in a major northerly.

Yet another cracking sail today under way just over 6 hours and only 40 minutes on the engine. A consistent 18 to 20 kts which meant that the forecast 0.6 m waves were more like 1.0 m .

Ormos Fikhiada is a beautiful isthmus on Kithnos and you can anchor either side depending on wind direction. There is also a protected area just east off the beach that we have used in the past. This year though the three of us are in the south bay (right hand side below)

I have a beautiful dawn video of the three boats in the anchorage but it has been vastly surpassed by the “Spielberg” production from Danny using his drone for flyby shots and beautifully edited. Yet again I can only show stills from the visit.

Sunset from the south

While here both Nicolas, myself & Danny took turns wearing his diving hose apparatus and cleaning his hull. He had recently got it copper coated in Samos but isn’t happy about the performance. The water was still cold but between us we managed to complete the whole underwater section in an afternoon.

This was where the plan was for us to split. Danny & Stella off to Kea on route to Athens to meet some friends before returning their normal summer sailing in Turkey. Nicolas and ourselves were heading south to Paros via a return stop in Siros. Thereafter he would returning to Siros to pick up GM people who were coming for a week or so’s paid holiday on his boat, and we would continue south.

Well, it’s probably been coming for a while ……………………….

Everyone has been considering their respective naval navels, LOL. We are all of the opinion that we have been lucky to have seen the best of Greece what with massive rental catamarans now regularly taking up all the space and the busyness and heat of July & August we are all thinking it’s coming to the end. Nicolas in particular has just about made up his mind this is his last season and will put Syeni up for sale. He is wistfully visiting his favourite haunts in preparation and getting me to take pictures of him with Syeni in the background.

Anyway it’s not over yet ! & its nice to be spending these days in good company that we will look back on and cherish.

Danny is the only man I know that can eat ice cream at any time of the day, this is before we got the morning bus into Ermopouli, the main city & capital of Siros for some shopping, sightseeing & lunch.

Ermopouli

Easter eggs painted red for easter for you to smash together

Lunch in Ermopouli to finish off.

…………..  followed a few days later by Easter Lunch in Posidhonio. ………

I have no recollection what the faces are for in the 2nd picture , lol