Well the plan had been to head north with the expected southerly winds forecasted after a visit to an ophthalmologist in Karlovassi to have my IOP checked. I was advised I regularly should when leaving Scotland. Unfortunately it has increased – not good given my family history – so another visit this time back to Vathi the next day was required for medication. This meant we missed the only glimmer of southerlies for a while.
We were quite impressed with Ormos Marina but had been there long enough so a change of plan was hatched. Instead of heading north we would go west across the Aegean through the northernmost Cyclades, to Siros, and possibly Kithnos.
The overall passage plan
We would then make our way northwards up through the Evoia channel to the Sporades. The latter being areas of Greece we have not yet visited by boat.
Our 1st leg was just across to Nisidhes Fournoi, a rock bound set of islands just to the west of Samos. We left at lunch time expecting a lazy 3 hour meander across from Marathocampos. Poseidon was having none of it! 26 knots of unforecast wind meant a brisk sail and arriving in our proposed anchorage in jig time, the bay just north of Makronisi, near my digit in the picture below. Another boat was in prime position but we managed to squeeze in. Dinner, a few glasses of wine and bed at 20:00!!
The first stop
We were back up at 02:00 to set off for Siros, 82 or so miles to the west across what can be a very windy channel, so we were leaving early to minimize a battering. As it turned out the channel crossing section was relatively benign and gave us a fantastic sail, the “battering “took place just south of Mykonos and for the whole length of the island. Apparently, we found out later, this was the norm caused by winds screaming over Tinos and Mykonos. The last time we had visited nearby Delos however it was like a millpond. The plus side again was we saw 7.5 + knots boat speed and crossed in less time than expected, tired but buzzing.
The 2nd passage
Woooo hoo !
We anchored in Ormos Finikou a large bay on the south west of Siros just east of the figures “5M” in the above chart picture. Nicolas was still here and he came over over for an aperitif………..
Finikas bay – a nice spot if a bit overcast tonight.
………. after which, with the adrenaline now well depleted, it was time for a kip. Lily too was out for the count by now having been fed, watered and at last being able to visit her box!
Nicolas’ boat Syeni in the foreground
The big boat with the lights costs a discounted May rate 0f 98,000 euros for a week!
The bay and the beach are very attractive so itis not surprising that a number of hotels & villas have sprouted her. Nearly everyone who visits here likes it, us included this is our second visit. Unfortunately the Pizza restuarant wasn’t yet open.
The day after crossing & settling in to Finikas
Last time Louise visited Ermoupolis, for a hairdressing trip, but this was my first venture into the largest town.
Ermoupolis is still the capital of the Cyclades although it may not have the commercial power of old but it still buzzes. There is a large shipyard that would rival John Brown’s and ships were built here but now mainly only maintenance work.
The buildings around the harbour reflect the past power. A wander round the backstreets and you can see neo classical buildings and ship owners’ mansions some crumbling a bit here and there. The quay is alive day and night and the front has unlimited choice of bars where you can sit and watch the ferries coming & going. In the back streets you can find old fashioned ouzeries sitting amongst newer chic clothes shops. The town was historically split into a Catholic area & the Orthodox Greek area with cathedrals and churches of both perched high up above the town. On her previous visit Louise climbed to the highest Greek Orthodox one where on arrival a priest took pity on her and gave her some water. You can see the church in the photographs – some climb!
Our visits this time were a bit less ecclesiastical, chandlers and laundry. So up early for the bus into town, the first day trip for my “tourist” visit and to buy some ropes for Camira and a solar controller for Syeni, of course followed by aperitifs , lunch and the bus back.
Unfortunately on the 2nd visit having done the laundry, had lunch & found butchers outside of which what we thought was our bus stop, wasn’t and it was a taxi job back to Finikas.
Louise had said I would like Ermoupolis and I did.
