We were waiting on suitable weather for the bigger trip back down to Lemnos and it looked two days hence.

We had the option of sailing direct from Ralucca Beach near Ouranopolis on the mainland where we had moved to from Amouliani (Option 1) or returning back south west to Sykias first shaving 10 miles of the bigger trip to Lemnos.(Option 2)

Option 1 . (and Xerxes be damned)

Option 2.

The gamble was that Sykias can, as you have seen from a previous post, have a bad swell entering the bay.

In the end we took the chance and headed 21 miles back down to Sykias. It was rolly but not too bad, phew.

We are now very, very low on stocks and originally we thought of the pizza bar on the beach road, but neither of us could be bothered with inflating & then deflating the dinghy as we were both tired and an early start was planned for the next day.

A delightful dinner of pasta and tinned tuna, Mmmmm I hear you say (apparently one of Harry’s favourites.) followed by, I believe, the last available glass of wine and bed.

06:30 and the wind looked great on the forecast for a one tack sail all the way south but after starting really well it died and we ended up motor sailing 8 hours of an 11 hour passage in sometimes 2m beam on rolly swell – yeeeeuch.

Leaving Sykias 06:30 and Mt Athos.

57 miles later at 17:30 we were anchored in Myrina just off the beach in our usual spot. To be honest I anchored a wee bit too close to an Italian yacht and so after inflating the dinghy Louise went ashore for some basics to see us through until morning i.e. wine & gyros kebabs and I stayed aboard to anchor watch.

As it turned out we were ok and anyway makes a change from the normal practice of Italians crowding us, lol.

The harbourside was full of boats and a number in the bay anchored along with us.

Myrina harbour and castle, always a lovely sight

Lying in the NE corner of Singitikos Kolpos, just south of the site of Xerxes canal is the island of Amoulini.

The canal was ordered by king Xerxes of Persia in 480BC, in preparation of his invasion of Greece. It is said that he hoped to avoid a repetition of the disaster some 12 years previously when the Persian fleet was destroyed by storms when rounding the Mount Athos peninsula. (You can see the site of it at Nea Rodha Wpt#3 on the chartlet below)

Only about 15 miles as the crow flies we however totted up about 20 as we tacked back & forth across, originally intending heading to round the south but in the end arrived via the north.

We anchored off the main town next to the ferry dock. It’s not an ideal or particularly safe anchorage with quickly shoaling waters. However the forecast was for relative calm so we were happy for one night. Years ago we couldn’t get in here as there were too many boats. There were none this evening ……eh I wonder why, do they know something we don’t? lol.

We found it very touristy down near the harbour and full of brash Bulgarians,

but up near the church in the old square it’s still very Greek. We had discovered a delightful “small plates taverna” on our last visit and we revisited it this time. It was just as good, lovely people and busy with friendly locals.

Quasi Modo and his small plates

Only downside of the evening was I had earlier dived down to check the anchor and got stung in the eye by a wasp or jelly fish and was now doing a fine impersonation of Quasi Modo, lol.

Ok Louise bashed me one,lol.

Well it was bedlam as expected and on the Monday we tried to unsuccessfully to “escape” to Dhimitriaki out of the way but we were beaten back by wind and waves on the nose which meant the planned anchorage would have probably been untenable anyway.

So back the way we came.

We tried a few other bays which were either too busy, unsuitable or strangely just difficult to set our anchor in.

In the end we came back to almost the exact spot we had left about two hours before on a patch of clear sand. Good anchoring from Louise.

The anchorage at Dhiaporos & some of the  “little darligs “ just enjoying themselves, hrrrmmmph.

On the Tuesday things were more favourable and we did make it this time.

On our way – “Oi, are we nearly there yet?”

I loved this we anchorage the last time but Louise (initially) couldn’t remember it until we actually arrived.

It has a very beautiful and calm shoreline.

Dinner on the boat tonight just enjoying the view and sunset.

Thursday 4th August – night time.

Well that’s me literally back from my first “ shout” . I was  settling down to read Bolitho after returning to our boat on anchor tonight when spotlights from the shore continually flashed on our windows. Thinking it’s just a shore fisherman I go up & shout across “What’s the problem ?”

“Can you help me – small boat!  small boat! “ is the eventual translation . So after reconnecting the battery on the dinghy motor again I head for the shore – it’s his remote control boat apparently worth 1,700 euros that he uses to trawl for fish that has lost it’s drive and is heading off into the wild blue yonder at the entrance to the bay . It’s about metre plus long with all the proper navigation lights so I could see it in the distance .

I put on my yellow wellies and set off to salvage the vessel. lol.

Photo courtesy of Diane Facebook – Lidl East Kilbride. Wellies bought for RNLI colouring now rotting in hut back in Bearsden after doing the garden last December.

Having successfully returned the stricken vessel to her owner on the beach – he promised me a big fish tomorrow – unfortunately we are leaving early ish so will miss out on the pay off.

Well it’s now 09:30 Friday morning and no sign of my fish.

Today we are heading north today to Nisos Dhiaporos. It’s about 30 or so miles away and has beautiful “Caribbean” type water but we suspect at this time of year it will also be swarming with little rent-a-boats, jets skis & the like. We will see.

We literally only used 10 minutes of engine to up anchor and reach the bay entrance before sailing out and around the south of the peninsula. It seemed promising for a sail but the direction of the wind meant one long good tack followed by a dispiriting short one. It was good fun to sail the boat without the use of “Peggy” our auto helm as we tacked up the coast. I see from the log that after just fewer than 4 hours of sailing the wind died altogether and it was a motor for the remaining afternoon.

It was very hot, the hottest day so far. Our engine exhaust monitor was reaching 48 degrees!

We arrived just before 18:00.

Picture from the Greek Pilot Book . We intend anchoring in Ormos Koumaroudhes, the 1st bay after the entrance with the little anchor.

Last time we were here 3 years or so ago was in the company of Bob, Andrea & the Meerkats  (Wolfgang & Renate) and was in June. The rental chaos was far less then. I guess August is not the best time to visit here. Never the less after 18:00 things begin to settle down from the continuous rocking of the day and a relative calm decends.

We had to stock up on provisions so the next day we dinghied across the bay 1 mile each way to the “local” supermarket. Last time the old two stroke gave up and Bob had to tow us back!

Picture from the Greek Pilot Book . We are anchored by the little arrow on the right and the “local” supermarket is across the bay at the arrow on the left.

Calm in the evening after the chaos of the day

We have just looked at the weather for visiting a few anchorages further north before heading to Amouliani Island and then finally back down to Lemnos.

Today though, we have decided is a lazy Sunday watching all the Greeks arriving from the mainland to have day anchored off the beach. I imagine even more chaotic if that’s possible , lol

Being anchored at the other end of the bay from the village proper was far nicer.

Normally we dinghied to the far end , just under a kilometre, but today we just took it ashore across from the boat and walked in to explore .

Turned out there was taverna quite close to us, but given Louise “mounting” the dinghy on the way back and falling in I thought it better not to try beach landing again in “good” clothes at night !

Unfortunately no pictures but it was hilarious.

In mitigation the tubes on this dinghy are a fair bit taller & wider than our old one, lol.

Our anchorage and the bay entrance

Obligatory beer before the supermarket & return walk

Calm restored by “normal “evening transport to the most expensive but nice taverna in Porto Koufos

Only the next and last night did we discover the cheapest & best !

Ah well next time maybe……………….