Chill time !

It’s now nearly June and the temperatures are building fast.

Whilst you can always cool off at the back of the boat with the shower or (if brave) a quick dip in the harbour – only to be considered when very quiet and no boats “polluting” the water, especially the charter ones!

But nothing quite hits the mark like a dip in clear blue seas. There are a number of beaches around Limnos as you can imagine from the indented coastline.

Limnos Island

Moudhros Harbour & Town – we are where the little white marker is on the 1st finger at the bottom.

There are two relatively close beaches (Paralia in Greek) , about an 8 km return walk away from Moudhros. Faliraki & Havouli.

Faliraki has a beach bar and small apartments to let.

Havouli has absolutely nothing just a beautiful beach.

I have only been to Faliraki.

Louise has been to both.

What does that tell you?  lol.

 Yes, it’s out over that road in the distance !

On one visit we walked further, past the actual beach, to look at the possibility of anchoring off here. Certainly a beautiful spot but there are a few underwater rocks you would need to be careful of.

Falaraki Beach in the distance.

After swimming we had a drink before thinking about trekking back, neither of us are sun worhippers so half an hour usually suits and yes that is Daniel Craig’s body double exiting the sea.

There are some cracking houses on the walk back – would do me quite happily. Some quirky ones as well – a beautiful wee garden but the house is made of containers must be boiling. We think maybe it’s just a garden plot.

Moudhros in the distance across the bay on the return

The pretty “container” flower garden – check out the wee church feature in the centre.

Finally back “home” in the toon centre.

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Havouli beach in the distance – another day.

Totally deserted !

I think I mentioned that Michelle & Chris, the Kiwis, were here in the previous blog. So too were another three boats – Italian (Christina & Louis), English (Cherry & Hugh), German (Liz & Johannes).

Liz and Johannes were late arrivals on their very small motor cruiser. They had travelled down the German rivers and canals to the Black Sea and then through Istanbul, Turkey. What this meant was that in order to “Enter Greece officially” they had to arrive at an entry port (and check in with Customs, Port Police, Immigration etal) which Moudhros unfortunately is not. They had never been in “open waters “other than a wee bit of the Black Sea and a calm short crossing from the Dardanelles. They had visited the Moudhros Port Police and they had said that they needed to check in around at Myrina and they should leave immediately a three hour plus trip. Now it was blowing a real hoolie & I for one would not wanted to leave port and we were all a bit concerned for them. Michelle & I suggested they revisit the Police and say that they would go as soon as possible but were a bit worried about leaving in this weather. The police were OK about it (as we thought they would) and even said they could even go ashore which strictly they shouldn’t.

Result #1

Now the BBQ had been Hugh’s idea early on the Sunday morning when it was calm. He was providing the actual BBQ equipment and we were really lucky the shops AND the butchers here were open on a Sunday so Louise & Michelle headed up to the village and stocked up on things to cook. The BBQ was on.

Result #2

We hunkered down behind the wall at the fishermen’s awning and had a great time.

Hugh did well getting the actual BBQ alight and cooking all the food.

The Italians who were in there mid to late seventies brought the fish they had caught and prepared as well as some lovely Italian wine. We brought the trusty Greek plastic bottled stuff! At the end of the evening while clearing up we noticed that Christina was using our wine to clean the tables! She must have thought it that bad it was some sort of surface cleaner, lol.

I was the official event photographer – here are some of the pics.

I had been seeking a justification for the Enid “Blytonish” title of this particular blog but unfortunately we only have a famous three not five on board….. Or do we?

I had forgotten about:

Padstow Bear

A handmade bear by Ann-Marie, given to us as a present, way back in Padstow, not long after we had crossed the Irish sea together on our inaugural night crossing from Howth – He was her 1^st of many productions, a very talented lady.

and:

Scruff

Yet another present from way back in the day. On a weekend sail to Tabert Loch Fyne in the company of yacht Aquarius, Susan had bought us this finger puppet, and he has been tethered at the top of one of our grab handles ever since.

Both now very seasoned sailors, they no longer suffer from Mal de Mer.

So there we have it – “Gordo, Lou, Lily, Padstow Bear & Scruff”

And yes the skipper has lost it, yet again!

Anyhow the original plan was to head around to Mythimna on the NW of Lesbos for a couple of days before striking off for Lemnos.

From the log book I see we upped anchor and were off just before 07:30 in calm seas with the main sail & motor sailing. At 10:30 just abeam Sykiamos on the north coast of Lesbos the wind picked up and we decided to just continue all the way to Lemnos, 72 miles away. It would take us around 18 hours, a night sail and a night anchoring, but we were sure we had picked a suitable destination and back up. Initial intentions were actually to enter into Moudhros bay to an anchorage we had used before in southerlies but in the end with light winds we chose Ormos Pavlou. A bay on the south coast.

We arrived at 00:30 and had the anchor happily secured in the blackness at 00:45 (waypoint number 3) followed swiftly by two large G&T’s and bed.

It had been a long day – 17 hours with the wind dying just as we were crossing very busy shipping lanes followed by the forward navigation lights having given up the ghost just after sunset! Lucky white heather.

Our anchorage the next morning.

Two of the famous five were loathed to get up for the wee 3 hour jaunt round to Moudhros. (Chequered flag waypoint)

The entrance to Moudhros bay

But by 11:00 were we tied up alongside in front of Michelle & Tuffers, the two Kiwis we had met in Scala Loutra, when they had wrapped their prop and he had needed stitches as result of trying free it.

Moudhros harbour

Still a little tired we had lunch (2 hours old fresh sardines from local fishermen who were also in the taverna).

Lunch

An old “anchor”

and that night after a wander, dinner in the same place next to the harbour.

Dinner

Lemnos, one of our favourite destinations reached.

The route from Scala Loutra to waypoint 3 for 5 nights then on up to anchor at the flag

On Saturday morning 21st May we motored the 13 miles around to Mytilini Marina, followed by Brian & Sara on Tutela. We had managed to get a berth on our old pontoon C which would be good for Lily’s comings and goings – more later.

It was nice to be returning and got a lovely welcome from Vivi & Anastasia in the office as well as Zoe and Stratis who work in the marina. I am pretty sure they gave us a discounted price it was only 15 euros a night and when I settled our bill they didn’t charge for water or electricity.

Louise quickly made friends with (almost) royalty, Major Clive Forestiere – Walker and his lovely wee wife, Christian, who took a real shine to Louise. They had just bought a brand new motor yacht and Louise ended up putting the new name and the Royal Yacht Squadron insignia on for them. I got invited on later as well for a look around and it included a detailed instruction on how to use a pressure cooker from Christian, lol. Clive had completed a number of tours in Crossmaglen, bandit country, NI back in the troubles before going into stock broking. They were now both well into their seventies. Christian was a bit overwhelmed by it all poor wee soul. They departed for Turkey a few days later.

No show without punch – Lily on the brand new cruiser for a nosey , mind you so was I at the time

Another night we opened the bottle of champagne that Brian & Sara had bought for Louise’s 60^th back in March and invited them onto Camira to share it before we all headed off to “Katy Wynettes” the  taverna just across from the marina for dinner.

Unfortunately the night was marred by our return to the boat to find there had been a horrendous cat fight with blood and poop everywhere. Lily was a bit shaken but recovered quite the thing over the next few days, thankfully

We visited the usual sites, a wander into town & around the harbour,

a visit to Nan, the cooperative restaurant run in aid of and partly by the refugees. We had a chicken korma, OK I would’ve preferred a full Bhuna with all the trimmings – spiced onions, papadums etc – but still good to get that taste of curry.

After 5 days in the marina we headed 15 miles north to the NE corner of Lesvos and anchored off what has now been named seagull island, proper name Nisos Asproniso. It was a seagull colony with quite a few fledglings already trying out the calm waters. Now seagulls are meant to be diurnal and sleep at night, but one guy hadn’t heard this and was in party mode all night! lol

Leaving Mytilini Marina

Arrival & anchorage at “Seagull Island” me hearties !

Beautiful anchorage though – but for calm weather only as the area is fringed by more than a few rocks, reefs and shoal waters.

Louise had her 1^st ouzo of the season on the Saturday night.

We were going to stay a couple of days more in Scala Loutra and then head around to the marina for a long overdue clean up of the boat, clothes and ourselves. Who said this life was luxurious anyway? It would also have let Lily off the boat. We think she is going stir crazy with boredom.

Two things happened to scupper those plans (1) we discovered a badly injured wee cat and (2) high winds that are now preventing us going even if we wanted to.

We have been feeding the cat antibiotics to hopefully stem infection in a bad wound on her neck. It does seem to be working although we haven’t been able to get ashore since Wednesday night due to the severe winds which have been continual. They are still high as I speak but I’m hoping for a wee lull to go ashore and check tonight, fingers crossed.

We had arranged for our vet friend to come and she had agreed but no show so far.

We moved from our southerly anchorage for safety but a boat that remained where we were got blown aground in the wind two nights ago. He’s safe now though & tied up to the quay – a local boat pulled them off.

The same Sunday evening that we found the cat we were in the taverna having a meal when a local fisherman Apostolis sent over some flat fish he had caught & cooked. Quite a character and nine sheets to the wind. He runs a tourist boat out of Mythima in the north of the island.

Apostolis & his fish

Local fishermen cleaning & tenderising the kalamari

Brian & Sara arrived on their boat along with a new pal Wolfgang on his. We had an evening ashore in the tavern followed by an hour on Wolfgang’s boat, for a nightcap of Schnapps.

Wolfie, as I write this, is on his way across to Volos on the mainland of Greece at the other side of the Aegean, rather him than me.

Diane was planning to stay until the 19^th May to be able to see some of Lesvos but Harry was unwell again so she had cut short her plans and booked a flight out of Lesvos on Thursday the 12^th, tomorrow. Better to be safe than sorry with things like this.

So on her last day we could’ve gone into Mytilini on the bus / taxi or just up the hill a 25 minute walk to Loutra village. We chose the latter planning to get some shopping a quick beer then back down, to let her enjoy the last afternoon in the sun and then pack her impressive wardrobe, lol

The walk up to the village is very pretty

My kind of shopping

Our favourite taverna at the top of the village –and its very cheap

The flight the next day was not too bad time wise leaving from Lesvos at 12:00 meaning a taxi was ordered for 10:00. She would have to hang about in London though but at least arriving back directly in Glasgow and not Edinburgh.

It turns out fortunate (if that’s the correct word in the circumstances) that she had booked this return date, as early hours on the Thursday morning, she got a phone call advising Harry had been taken to hospital by ambulance. Not a nice end to her holiday and very stressful for her trip back.

Postscript – without going into details, Harry is now out of hospital and having a wee break at his mum’s house, good news.

The new dinghy was inflated, electric motor assembled and initial sea trials took place. Diane has video footage to show that surprisingly no arguments took place amongst the crew.

We showed Diane around the small village. did’t take that long, lol

The old tannery is now well under way in its conversion to a wedding venue

before heading to the taverna for lunch.

Then it was back to the boat for a swim and a lazy afternoon.

At 08:45 we set off for Lesvos 44 miles away.

It was a hard beat at 4 knots to clear the Xios channel.

Underway for just over 9 hours & only managed to sail the first 2.

Motor sailing the rest of the way.

At one point I had to call up a LBC who kindly altered course to clear behind us.

Koplos Yeras is a large landlocked bay on the south east of Lesvos

Scala Loutra is just off the narrow entrance to the right . The navigation is safe enough by day but best avoided at night.

We arrived and anchored at 18:00.

There are now yellow marker buoys in the south of the bay we anchor in. Looks like a fish or mussel farm.

There is still room to anchor in behind it though under the church on the hill .

Dinner on board that night and explore tommorrow

At long last there seemed to be a break coming in the weather which would allow us to start our track northwards towards Lesvos.

Although not perfect conditions we decided to take the opportunity of hopping over to Oinnouses on the Sunday night for two reasons, one, to let Diane see somewhere different and two, to shave some time & distance off the bigger jump to Lesvos on the Monday

After saying our goodbyes to Nicolas who was heading back south to get his engine repaired, we left Xios marina at 16:00.

A pleasant trip over……

 with some high jinks on the way got us there at 18:15.

Just in time for Diane & Louise to have a quick explore before sundown and then head off to the taverna.

Lily had a brief sojourn ashore only to be chased by some local cats and so was back on board toute suite.

Since our last visit the windmills have been fully renovated and are  especially nice lit up at night.

The walk into town is still a right royal pain in the arse & dangerous to boot, but I have to say for someone who initially was not overly impressed with Xios town it is growing on me.

Diane arrived on the 29^th with enough luggage for a transatlantic passage on a liner– she didn’t know how long she was staying for so presumably packed like Emelda Marcos.

The castle courtyard cafe / taverna

Give us a gyros eh?      Me and my wee sister are starvin’

Drinks on Camira

Dinner on Syeni – boiled squid in wine

Some bird at Homers’ Stone – Daskolapetra

The same bird having chocolate mouse for breakfast left over from Syeni dinner

The fishermens’ taverna next to the marina –that bunnet has to go !

Pytha had taken up stealing Lily’s grub when she wasn’t on board !

She was having none of it – now on guard

We had planned to take Diane to Oinousses, a small pretty island 8 miles or so from Xios, but because we were again stuck with the weather we thought of going on the ferry. Strangely however there were no return daytrips except for one particular Sunday which would also have meant rising with the larks – so we binned that idea.

On the day we ventured into Xios town to find this out at the shipping office we stumbled on a little taverna up a back street where we had lunch. We were helped being served by a black girl from Nigeria as the tavern owner “Papa” didn’t speak a word of English or have English menus. He just brought out a selection of meze and it was great.

The Nigerian girl told us she worked in the bar next door at night. 

Turns out it was a brothel, lol.

Despite buying and having Diane carry out a small inverter that on the face of it should have ran Louise’s hair straightners – it didn’t !

Fed up with the lack of hairstyling opportunities on board, a trip into Xios town was arranged to have their hair blow dried

I on the other hand visited the dentist to get a broken tooth & filling replaced!

Dental humour – check the plant pots in the waiting room

We had to buy a new tracking mechanism for Lily as the old one is broken and can’t be replaced anymore. The new one works by active GPS subscription and we can follow her, live if we want, on phone apps, a bit like Google maps.

One evening she appeared back at the boat without her collar which had probably got snagged in the “jungle” she had taken to playing in. The collar is designed to do this for safety.

These are pictures of Diane & I trying to find the missing tracking device using our phones to home in.

Lily on the other hand couldn’t give a toss she was off for a kip.

We hired a car for the day to visit the south of the island. The girl who delivered the car to the marina was getting married the following weekend and invited us all to the wedding! We said we would go if we were still here. We would have been 4 of  about 600 guests – apparently small for a Greek wedding.

The south is famous for producing Masticha , a sap harvested from trees and used in lots of things including the original chewing gum production.

We visited the museum which was surprisingly interesting detailing the painstaking and time-consuming work to harvest even a small quantity. It was an important income generator back in the Genoese & Byzantine times and still is.

After that we visited Emborious, chiefly to see the anchorage but also for a coffee stop.

It was then off to Pirgi a very traditional town with ornately painted buildings. We had drinks in the square and had intended eating there but were advised the tavernas, strangely, don’t open until the evening.

We eventually found a really good tavern for lunch in Olimbi 8 kms down the road.

On the way back we visited a sleepy village in the mountains with a creepy church. A local woman gave us a taste of unprocessed Masticha – it was awful. How the digestive turns out as nice as it does is anyone’s guess.

It was then back to the boat to get “dressed” for our Saturday evening out at one of the castle tavernas we had eaten at before. It was a cold night in the alfresco restaurant though.

We had great fun watching the cats up the wall behind Diane