Well believe it or not I am, as usual, well behind with my Blog updates.

It’s now Sunday 19^th July !!! and we are in France, have been since 14^th April. So this is in fact a retrospective wind up of the sailing blog that started way back on the Clyde in 2012 , the year of my “retiral”

Another day in Paradise’s neighbouring olive trees have been cut back like an Brazilian rain forest, the place looks totally different but definitely more light is getting in. I hope Corinna likes it. That together with all the garden clearance work having been done over the last month by Dino, Poppy and us will certainly make it easier for Corinna & Ton to fine tune “ Paradise” to her satisfaction, when her & Ton arrive next week.

The Olive tree Massacre 

Dino, Poppy & their daughter Zoe

Garden looking lovely with palm trees cut back

We emptied and cleaned the pool which had suffered badly from the winter rains and the bottom was covered in sand. It was a hot tiring job but a a cool dip in a clean pool was the order of the day’s reward, well the day after ! That’s how long it takes to fill it up.

Other “Paradise “ events included:

The continuing bureaucratic preps for going to France all under the watchful eye of the financial director.

And the Auld gits 70^th birthday celebs – ffs where did the time go ?

Amongst the prezzies a bottle of “champers” that I have left on Camira for our return , whenever that may be ……

…… and a Greek Coast Guard Polo top that I have created for over the years. Louise managed to buy me one but only under the proviso by the shop that I don’t wear it in public, think it’s illegal.

Maybe once I am out of Greece I will risk it – as yet to this day 19^th July – it sits folded in the wardrobe in France. I am waiting until I have the anatomy of said coastguards ……. may be a while eh?

Louise was going to have a house party but the logistics, people and nearness to our departure just made that untenable.

Marina issues:

Its going to be hard leaving Caramel who now accepts & runs up to me having fed her all winter.

Update: She is still doing well (July 26) and has had another litter of babies – pictures courtesy of Dany & Stella.

Well done wee mama !

Camira is all wrapped up with a tarpaulin to protect the windows over the coming year. We have arranged for her to be lifted as soon as a space becomes available hopefully late April / early May. Brain & Sara have offered to stow fenders, drop the anchor etc. for us.

The penultimate day was Marco’s annual Easter bash with roast lamb & goat on the spit, though you had to be quick to beat the greedy b@@@@rs at the far end of the table to get a decent portion. I didn’t but a lovely day it was anyway & very generous of Marco as usual.

The following day was spent cleaning the house and final packing for the next adventure ……. France.

So that’s it …….. for now …… 

The Camira Sailing Blog 2012 – 2026 ends:

14 years.

13,375 nautical miles.

2,900 hours underway.

Thanks Camira.

Time to come clean. It’s Louise’s birthday

Captain chaos strikes again !

It is Friday 13th !!

1 . A Bouquet of flowers (Lilies) are secreted into the garden hut late last night in advance of Mrs M’s birthday.

For some reason I then started to read about Lilies:

– extremely toxic to cats !

– death in 48 hours if they come in contact with even the minutest part of the plant,      water or pollen!

Google it if you don’t believe me.

2. A bottle of rose wine scoffed the night before – intended for the birthday breakfast also now gone !

Thinking,  I’ll donate them (the lilies) randomly to somebody, but I further discover from my “research” –  lilies are normally associated with funerals, FFS !

In the morning, says I to Mrs M: 

“Look out the kitchen window”

“If you look next to the hut you will see the flowers intended for you”.

BUT ……..

“You can’t have them.”   LOL

” Will be gone for a bit”  I say

Off down to Vathi (Samos town)  just intending to return the flowers rather than throwing them in the bin.

I’m not looking for a replacement, but the florist decides he is going to do something for me & no arguments please.

He is an absolute gentleman, and he is called Hercules.

Hercules making up a replacement bouquet

So now I am going back up the road with a replacement bunch of flowers to tell Louise they are from a Greek called Hercules.

You couldn’t make it up.

Anyway a nice lunch, body shop guff, even pink fizz and everything fine for the rest of the day ……..………………. so far.

Birthday breakfast with replacement flowers and fizzy pink stuff.

Captain Chaos himself!

Lunch at Chickens Taverna, Samos Town in glorious weather

Addendum

The wonderful Hercules got a bottle of Psilés Korfés, by way of thanks.

Ψηλές Κορφές is a well‑known dry white from Samos made from Muscat of Samos. It’s one of the island’s signature aromatic whites.

1^st March

Kalo Mina

Spring day & the bees are already busy

We have to make a decision where we are going to keep the boat while we are away for a year. Renew the marina contract or move to Samos Sail.

My initial thoughts had been Samos Sail’s yard around at Samos town for security.

I had originally indicated to Kleanthis a date of near the 9^th of April to get Camira around, lifted out, “winterised” and covered up.

However I felt having now booked our flights for the 13^th April this would be quite tight re a favourable weather window & prep time on the boat, so I asked him if I could come around the 2^ndor 3^rd March when the sea was forecasted flat calm.

He would talk to his brother and get back to me.

When he did, he was unable to accommodate me saying he didn’t have any cradles?  This was despite earlier in the year when I was in the yard he looked around & said he did have enough. He is now saying he made a mistake. To be fair I did originally say around the 9^th & he has confirmed he will have cradles available by then, from where I don’t know ?

Anyhow, the reason for the post is, thinking that it would be OK, we took a drive around to investigate the small harbour at Aghia Paraskevi, where incidentally Poppy & Dino live. The plan had been to sail around here for one night and then on to Samos town the next day. I had even confirmed with a fisherman in the harbour it would be OK. This would have enabled me to split the journey up nicely to arrive early in the morning for the lift out.

Waypoint 3 would have left me just under an hour to the yard

It was a nice day out anyway, so here are the pictures.

Ag Paraskevi harbour, the blue fishing boat is Poppy & Dino’s

Afterwards, coffee in the sun Vathi Square

I have just had a quote from the marina and price-wise there is not a lot in it.

Just not sure now?

Decision to be made by the week end of Louise’s Birthday.

7^th March

Strange goings on in “Another Day in Paradise” . It’s the six nations rugby season and having soundly beaten England at Murrayfield last week, Scotland are playing France today, so a bit of support is needed, and also to send to my Gallic friend Nicolas as a wind up.

Post match update Scotland 50 – France 40.

Ya Dancer !

We could actually win the tournament  ……………   it is an outside chance …………  but who knows?

1^st February

Kalo Mina

The weather has started to pick up. It is still interspersed with the odd wild & windy day of which there have been a few this winter ! but when you get a good one like today it’s worth heading out.

This is Kokkari on the north coast not that far from Samos town. It’s where we went for lunch with Bru, Joni , Brian & Sara. Seems like ages ago, then only the southern hemisphere bods , Me, Joni & Bru braved the waves.

Today it’s deserted but nice for a walk through

5^th February

Foods a bit Spartan here I’m heading down to Vathi for a Gyros

7^th February

Sunny day in Vathi

The Marina’s resident duck at Marcos for a beer.

I had one too,  just to be sociable.

20^th February

Dino, Poppy, Louise & myself have been busy clearing the garden at the house. Dino is a daemon with the chainsaw and there will be a few large bonfires to come. Louise, Myself & Poppy are the gatherers-up but it’s a fair job let me tell you. The garden has been cleared over the last few weekends – what a difference. We think Corinna & Ton will be impressed.

However …………………

Lily is not ! She has seen her toilet area – previously overhung with trees & very sheltered for her morning ablutions – demolished. She christened it one last time in exasperation & then looked on unimpressed from the wall.

Hmmmmph ! Vandals

Happy New Year 2026

The visa visit is coming.

Louise has been learning French on Duo for some time now, and doing very well from having absolutely no French at all until we met Nicolas back in Sicily. She’s coming on great guns.

News this just this week !

France is introducing new citizen ship requirements one of which is to to fluent up to a particular level as a prerequisite for long stay residence in France, operational from 1^st January 2026.

“Sacre Bleu” & consternation !!!!

Louise despite her rapid advancement is nowhere near this proficiency yet and we are applying for a long stay visa in two weeks.

After a lot of online reading and a phone call by me to the French Consulate in Edinburgh during which I had to speak French as they will only converse in French, it appears that although it’s true it seems it’s only once you have applied for residency. Also there are multiple opportunities to take the test and, if you are over 65, then you are exempt altogether. No one is sure  if because she is applying for a long stay visa does it kick this off or not? It’s just suck it and see, but we are hoping she can hold out to post 65. Failing that in a years time she may be good enough to pass.

I, on the other hand, despite my 5 year secondary school French lessons managed to tell the lady I was speaking to that I would basically like to (“introduire” ) bonk her!

You should not use “introduire” to mean may I introduce myself it should be “present” . I knew when I was saying it but it was too late . LOL

So, Louise is off for her holiday to Athens.

Fingers crossed

Leaving the house in Samos

A bit of sightseeing, nice hotel, followed by a curry then off to her appointment the next day.

Sights, Hotel & Curry

Here we go …….Allez  Allez !

Aye well …………………………………….

after all that, as they say in the Eurovision Song Contest,  the” UK null points !”

No visa – well not the one we need !

A CDS of a family member of the European Union.

The consulate cannot issue these as its not French Immigration law it’s EU law. To cut a long story short it’s better as it’s “a right” due to me being Irish and can only be refused in extreme circumstances. It may also mean the language test is not required ? However we do have to apply at our local prefecture once in France within 3 months of being there.

All that time, effort and expense & all she has to do is rock up at the arrivals with me and my Irish passport, she’s even allowed to use the European Queue! LOL

Ah well she enjoyed Athens and got some more sights in before flying back to Samos.

Morning sights before the return flight

We have sort of adopted & feed a few cats at the marina.

Caramel, Blackie, & Friendly.

It really started with Caramel who had had kittens last summer and was being looked after by Danny at that time . She would come on his boat to get fed. When he & Stella headed back to Switzerland I didn’t think it was fair for her just to be stopped being fed overnight so we started feeding her. We will do it for the winter until Danny comes back and other boats arrive and then begin to cut down slowly before we leave in April. Hopefully she will find a replacement benefactor. (Although as I’m writing this it’s now March 12th and she is still on the full buffet. LOL)

By chance I found an old basket thrown being thrown out It was clean & soft, so I put it in the corner of “the Gym” behind the plate glass window which would get the sun – it would be nice & warm for her throughout the winter. I hoped she would use it.

One day  as I arrived to feed her I found her asleep curled up in it. She has now officially laid claim & taken up residence , although I’ve seen blackie sneaking in when she’s not there. When I arrive she pops up her head and trots over to her “feeding station”.

Caramel

The “Gym” feeding station – no show without Blackie

She was very timid at the start but now comes for a head butt when I arrive.

Back at the house the otters have been peeing in the pool again and I think they need to see a urologist !

Actually it’s after the heavy rains – looks like I’ll be cleaning the pool at some point.

The itinerary, admin & bureaucracy of our near enough full year in France now needs to be thought about.

It’s real, it’s happening, its exciting!

The 1^st thing to sort out is the visa requirements for Louise.

I am writing this up in retrospective narrative so it’s relatively easy to précis the whole episode with some type of rational flow and perspective. The reality was far more involved & lengthy!

From our initial enquiries when we were originally considering sailing to France we determined that the timescales for getting a visa, otherwise known as a Carte de Sejour (CDS) was about 6 weeks and the optimum time to apply to the Consulate in Athens would be in January.

So with January in our sights we started to pull together the plethora of documentation required including but not exhaustively : Visa application form, UK passport, Greek Resident Card, Passport sized photos, Letter detailing purpose of stay, Letter explaining my European status, Irish passport, Marriage certificate (in French) Details of accommodation & travel, Proof of health insurance cover, Funds available to support us ………….

They required two files one with originals and one with copies. In all then 4 folders full. To be honest pulling stuff like this together was my bread and butter but it did involve printing probably just short of 100 PDF’s, not to mention applying for health cover, arranging French translations etc.

A presentation Touche Ross would be proud of

With the files well on the way to be completed we were only waiting on proof of address from Nicolas’ friend, but despite Nicolas’s best efforts explaining we needed an address, confirmation of dates etc. the guy still did not get in touch with us, despite saying numerous times that he would. We finally realised that nothing was likely to happen and would have to give up on this option or risk being left high & dry.

A bit disappointing really but now what would we do now?

In the end we booked two alternative locations from April – June and July – September to replace our house sit. It will be more expensive but you only live once. The second of these is in a French friend’s small house that they rent out in extensive gardens next to the grand main house. It looks really lovely and we wish we had thought of this at the start – we would probably have based ourselves there for the full duration . Hindsight is a great thing ?

Albert’s family’s home in Chappelle Blanche, Savoie – looks fabulous !

All of the documentation now in place we booked an appointment with, and flights to, the consulate in Athens in January for Louise.

So that was that – Louise would get a visa for a year’s duration, I have my Irish passport …….  jobs a good ‘un  …………… Eh no ! LOL    ……………  see later

The remainder of December was now “ back to normal” on the build up to Christmas.

Sunny day in Vathi

Another in Pythagorio

The boat tidied up and prepared for her “long stay”

Our wedding anniversary aperitifs

A night out at the town hall piano recital by a local music teacher and her kids followed by a pizza at my wee pal’s pizzeria The owner’s wee boy has taken to buying me a beer when I pick up my Saturday night carry out.

Concert & Pizza. It was a sit in job tonight though.

Xmas Pythagorio

and Samos town square

When I say build up to Christmas, it’s always just a quiet affair with Lily the one who gets the presents which, after 5 minutes, she studiously ignores.

Christmas Day 2025

We have had a spell of wet weather and she has not been out for a wee while. She doesn’t like the wind and obviously the rain but at the 1st opportunity she was out warming herself in the sun at the bottom of the garden.

Well that’s us ashore.

We did think because the boat is being kept in the water this winter we may occasionally take her out for a day sail if the weather was good enough. We’ve often seen winter days we thought “ It would be nice to head along the coast & back.”

In the end however, when we started to exchange the summer spray hood for the winter one & remove the bimini,  we just decided to go the whole hog and remove the sails, winterise the engine etc.

We are normally lucky with the weather in November, it sort of hangs onto sunny days for a while. The seasons in Greece I feel change in a week – none of this Autumn for a month or two – it seems to go from warm to cold & wet in jig time. That said the rain, whilst usually heavy, doesn’t have that UK persistent grey weather accompanying it for months on end. We always get blue sky days along with it.

So while the weather is good we usually head out on a Saturday for a nosh up.

It also usually entails the various good byes to other sailing pals that are heading off back home, wherever that maybe, Switzerland, England, France. So even more eating out.

Come to think of it I really like November. LOL  ………..  especially before the regimented diet season kicks in !

Saturday 1^st November

A drive along to Ireon for an wander then back to Vathi for our lunch.

There was a lovely classical boat sitting in the harbour but no one about to ask about her.

Ireon

We only have the stills of Priti the cat at Chickens taverna in Vathi sitting on the chair next to me expectantly watching my every mouthful. He did get a reward at the end. The video is a riot, his head following the fork backwards & forwards.

Priti the house cat in Chickens Taverna

Sunday 2^nd November

Woo hoo! , I won a watch we are out again the next day. This time down to Stella, in Faros restaurant, Pythagorio, for Sunday lunch.

We just had what Stella recommended and very good it was too 

Friday 7^th November

Chickens again, with Danny & Stella (different Stella). We went here after actually sitting down at a taverna in Pythagorio whose prices were just ludicrous. We all just looked at one another and there was a non-verbal No! you’ve got to be kidding . We all actually like Chickens anyway (as you will see. LOL) It’s good food & reasonably priced.

A bit like “Desperate Dan’s Cow Pie “ portions

Saturday 15^th November

Yes you’ve guessed – we are back in Chickens this time with Danny, Stella, Mark & Sonia this time. Mark & Sonia drove from Ormos Marathocampos where they keep their boat. Although perfectly fluent in English, Mark really enjoyed the “break” of being able to converse easily for a while in French with Danny. Priti also managed an appearance, this time making friends with Sonia.

Chickens with the Cuckoo Clock Tobleronies

It was getting dark by the time we finished “lunch”

Sunday 16^th November

I think the guilt of overindulgence must have kicked in for Danny & Louise. They have now created a “Gym” above the marina ……

Panoramic view from the gym balcony

…….  and together they now regularly, four or five times a week, follow a video exercise class that Danny has on his iPad. Instructor shouting out commands etc.

This is bad news for me ! – because when the exercise regimes start, the taverna visits diminish exponentially.

My exercise is to carry Louise’s weights from the car to the gym.

14^th October 2025

The plan today was a final visit to Patmos before heading back to Samos for the winter in Another Day in Paradise

Passage planned for today

At 08:20 anchor up it was 5 knots of wind from the due north in the bay as we motored past a big military transport. The crew at the front watched us raising our mainsail – I hope we looked seaman like . LOL

It takes a while to exit the long entrance and I see from the log it was about an hour later we were abeam the rocks just north of the entrance, beating into a now 15 knot wind bang on the nose.

Would we continue on to Patmos?  With the rising wind & waves ?

We continued towards the Archangel channel for a go / no go decision (Wpt 2)

In the end we decided NO, we would head back to Lipsi.

Change of plan

At 10:50 am we were exiting the channel and heading back to Kouloura (Wpt 3).

By 12:00 pm we were anchored back in Kouloura with only one other boat for company.

We spent quite an uncomfortable night due to the swell. Safe as houses, but just no fun. Louise has always preferred the bay around the corner and has said before it’s more sheltered from the swell, and she is right, so next day we headed around there. Shouldn’t be busy this time of year.

We had another couple of days in Lipsi and of course a final visit to Manolis’

Another during provisioning fuel stop

The walk in – that’s Katsidia  in the distance.

Friendly donkey on the walk in – that’s him on the right

Finally Lipsi harbour  …….and

Ouzo stop (again you say ?) before Manolis’ Tastes

Manaolis himself

Saturday 18^th October 2025

This would be our last sail until April 2027 !!

If we haven’t sold the boat !!

Who knows ?

It was forecasted to be southerlies and indeed it started out SE at 08:00 am as we left, but by 11:30 am it was NE 15 knots gusting 20 , definitely not what was forecasted but a good sail ,if a bit bouncy. We had a full main and a reef in the Genoa. At 12:30 we were about 10 degrees off course but the wind usually dies as you approach Samos so we would adjust then.

15:30 In a berth on C Pontoon just in front of Marco’s.

Well that’s it ! a split short but enjoyable season – will it be our last …….. ?

The end of sailing 2025

Total  (2025)  521 miles, underway 119 hours.

Total  (2014 – date)  13,374 miles, underway 2,971 hours.

I realise I always seem to be giving Lakki a hard press but we do actually like it for all the reasons we have previously said.

After our night on the buoys at Pandelli we headed back around to Lakki. It was an overcast day and a mix of sailing then needing the engine. We arrived just after 11:00am and anchored in a lumpy bay due to the SW winds. Hopefully this will pass.

You can see from the chart, Leros is not very big. In fact you can walk from end to end quite easily.

Leros Island & Xirocampos bay at the south

Xirocampos is a nice walk . It’s the large bay down at the south. We had decided to revisit the fish taverna that Kalliopi had taken us to before.

On the way two cyclists on electric bikes were almost past us when we recognised It was Dean & Alison. Turns out they were also anchored in the bay , so we arranged to meet up one night later on.

Dean & Alision

One of the churches at Xirocampos

On the way down to Xirocamopos you pass the mansion that Mussolini had built for himself before he got kicked out of Leros a wee bit earlier than he expected.

Mussolini’s Gaff

Xirocampos beach & anchorage

We were not disappointed with the calamari.

Well worth the walk

We did have that night out with Dean & Alison

“They’re ashore again drinking, especially him!”

Aperitif time with Dean & Alison

We had a few nights in the cheap and cheerful taverna just across from our boat before it was time to leave , fully provisioned up.

Heading ashore at sunset

Our quirky wee taverna with the upside down table stuck to the ceiling

Tomorrow we would be heading north again and ultimately “home” for the winter

We stayed until Sunday 5^th October when the winds from the south abated.

We decided for a change to try an alternative stopping point on the east side of Leros.

All of 7 miles or so

From the log book I see we had a lazy day leaving Blefoutis at 15:15

Now normally we have absolutely no problems anchoring. Our Rocna anchor has been outstanding.

Unfortunately on this occasion, no matter how many times we tried, we couldn’t get the anchor to bite at the remaining space at either Alindi, (Wpt 6) or near Aghia Marina (Wpt 8). We did manage to find a spot in the little bay at (Wpt 7) but we were quite shallow and too near a couple of other boats. They were very graceful but we didn’t think it fair so we upped and left.

Our unsuccessful anchoring attempts

In the end we plumped for the new buoys at Pandelli. (Panteli on my Italian Chart !!!)

We used to anchor here in years past, just a bit further south of the buoys off the beach. It’s a bit hit and miss there, it’s a rocky shelf with sand on top.

Remaining anchor spots – the two boats in the distance.

Anyway we now fancied a meal ashore so we stumped up our 30 euros a night for a buoy.

George is very professional in his little tender buzzing about the boats, directing you then taking your bow lines and tying you off. It’s absolutely bunged with charter boats – must be on the KOS charterers places to visit, and why not? It’s a lovely spot.

We ate ashore in Pirofani, the same restaurant we had visited on the beach front many years ago. The prices not unexpectedly are up a bit but still lovely and a great spot.

Glorious sunsets & heading ashore for the evening

The fish harbour end is a wee bit run down now, such a shame. You used to be able to pick up a spot here if you were a wee boat & wished to try your chances at squeezing in. We never did though & I wouldn’t fancy it now.

The views from the buoys are fantastic, albeit 30 euros a night is a bit steep to justify lingering more than one night. Got to watch them Scottish Groats.

Morning pictures from the boat