Time to go

After 34 days (for me) in lovely Moudhros it was time to go. It was now Friday 22nd July.

I was getting known in the village and when the carry out pizza man sends over a carafe of wine when you are having lunch with your wife in a taverna how do you explain that, lol.

We left at 08:30 and managed to sail two hours of it. We caught one small tuna near the entrance to Moudhros bay but put it back.

We arrived in Myrina, the capital town of Lemnos just after lunch time and anchored off the beach with 1.2m under us.

The usual laundry, fuel, provisioning at Lidl etc. having all been completed in preparation of a further move when the weather allowed.

We were sitting one evening having a pre-dinner ouzo meze at our favourite “corner taverna” when George & Barbara of Pipe Dream from Orkney snuck up on us. These were the friends we first met in Mytilini and later bought the paddle board from in Lipsi.

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Our corner “Ouzeri”

They were now in sailing company of Peter & Fiona, relative newbies, who were getting some guidance & support from George & Barbara.

Of course this required a few beers on PipeDream one afternoon and a night out ! 

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Starting at the Ouzeri with the locals in traditional costume….

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followed by ……. another favourite restaurant that we all rated

“ The Gramophone” – not a great outlook, being in one of the small squares at the back of Myrina harbour, but great food and good value.

Small world this sailing lark

Havouli Beach Revisited

I decided on a longish walk – again to try to free up my knee.

There are two tough climbs in and out of Havouli in 36 degrees.

I hadn’t been before so set off to have a look.

Louise had been before in June I think and found it deserted, so best to take a bottle of water with me.

Lucky white heather. There is now a beach bar & shower.

Quick swim, quick ouzo, and then it was time to trudge back again.

Lovely spot though.

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Havouli beach is the inlet in the distance

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Seems popular with Bulgarians

When the cat’s away …

Well given my previous culinary admission, that & the heat, there was no way I was cooking evening meals on the boat!

I did make Greek salads for lunch now that I was an acknowledged expert, but when not just cold snacking on the boat evenings alternated between Kostas’s Snack Bar (Gyros), the Corner Cafe (Meze), the Taverna (Posh! night) and Saturdays, of course,(Pizza carry out.)

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Ah that’s better  – Heaven !

One advantage of all of this was the fridge was available for normal man cave gear as you can see.

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Now , is that not a properly stocked boat fridge?  even has cocktail sausages!

A secondary advantage was – given I would probably be on an enforced Fast 800 when the boss returned I might as well enjoy further man size luxuries when the cat was away!

But wait a minute is that not a cat entering stage left?

No problem there’s enough for two & those used to be her favourites.

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Nae Clipin’ !

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Ach I’m only posing – the beer’s no even opened…… yet! 

I even found a use for the few extra corks I managed to assemble.

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Friday night at Kostas’ was just like being at Ashton Lane, Byres Road, except it was dry and warm.

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Greek “Ashton Lane”  – people watching

A downside however of too many retsinas was that one morning  looking across the habour I thought to myself

“ That wee tower looks like he’s just noticed all the modern buildings that weren’t there before !”

You may need to zoom in to see what I mean.

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The surprised tower

Another strange thing happened, not retsina related. I was returning from the supermarket and came upon a horse tethered on the grass near the marina. As I passed,  a little collie type dog came barking at me, I thought nothing of it.

That night heading out the horse had moved to a different munching area. When I went to take it’s picture the same little mutt comes snapping at my heels.

He had been hiding in the grass – he’s the horse’s minder ! lol.

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Moudhros – hello again

Saturday 18th June saw us up very early for what it may seem just a wee jaunt of only four hours / 20 miles, but foul weather was expected later with accompanying high winds. In addition we thought to arrive just after 09:00 the reason twofold: firstly, if space was limited there may be more of a chance of people leaving around then, and secondly it gave us the option of sailing 60 miles south to Lesvos, not ideal given the forecast.

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Off we go then: 05:00

It’s dark just before dawn.

We have 20 knots of wind on the quay.

Engine on and all ok.

Steaming light on? – Yes, check.

Navigation lights on? – Yes, check – but the ones I had “fixed” are still flashing like a 70’s disco. Oh well it’ll be light in a wee while.

Anchor up without any issues, and heading out.

Autopilot on? – Yes, check

We are just outside the inner harbour breakwater.

“Beep, beep, beep” alarm!

Immediately I think it’s the engine overheating due to our wee oil leak and I have let the levels drop too far causing the oil pressure alarm to trigger, an immediate engine shut down job.

“Quick we need to hoist the sails” which can I say I was quite impressed with. We did in jig time and switched the engine off.

Phew!   Now just to sail out of here?

“Beep, beep, beep” alarm!

What the ##@@

“Ok you sail the boat & I’ll have a look”

Is it the depth alarm set at night on anchor I’d forgotten to switch off? – No.

Is it the separate exhaust temperature alarm? – No.

Head scratching and then we both saw it at once “Peggy” our trusted autopilot had been “disengaged “- and was letting us know. To this day neither Peggy, the Skipper nor the Mate have owned up, lol.

Definitely coffee time!  Then set up the fishing rods.

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Just over three hours later we were approaching the entrance to Moudhros Bay where we turn in, but still an hour to go to the harbour. It shallows here and we thought this might be the place to  catch a fish.

Now in 10 years we have, Louise that is, caught only one fish, a small tuna near Poros. Me – only a seagull!! which made me to give up for a while and highly amused Nikolas our French pal.

I used to fish a bit at Largs when I was a school boy. We would get the “Blue Train” from Glasgow Central and go out on the boats that would leave from the beach front at Largs; the sea between the Cumbraes & Largs was teeming with Cod & Mackeral in those days. I wouldn’t call myself an avid angler, but it was with a bit of nostalgia I realised my old boat rod I was using now was at least 50 odd years old!

That must’ve done it “fish on the line” and panic all round……

“Who’s going to kill it?”

“Who’s going to gut it?”

…… and all before we have landed the bloody thing!

Anyhow the deadly deed done by me, Louise cleaned, filleted and cooked lovely wee tuna for tea.

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Only the 2nd fish in 10 years

When we reached Moudhros at 09:15 there was plenty of space, thankfully, as the wind was a steady 29 knots and rising in the harbour , probably more outside.

The rest of this post is a composite of before Louise leaving for Scotland on the following Tuesday and after.

The ever necessary laundry was done in the black bucket (the one the fish had been in, lol) on the quayside.

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Who said this lifestyle was glamorous?

Shortly thereafter the bilges in my cabin were unexplicably flooded. Someone? had left the platform shower on when replacing it ! A lovely hot two hour job emptying & drying my bilges.

We do like Moudhros, it’s quiet, attractive, has all the shops & tavernas you would need and appears successful with Lily as well. Result!

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In my preferred berth, now, on the lee (sheltered) side after the storm.

We had 60 knot winds tilting the boat at 45 dgrees and those fenders were squashed flat & the only thing between Camira and concrete. I had Lily’s carry bag & my passport etc. looked out in case I had to leave the boat. Worst night I have ever had on the boat ! Ever !

All calm now & OK

Lily would sometimes head for the rocks in the breakwater and a “search party“ would go out to try to coerce her back – in the end “the search party” gave up!

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The search party giving up

In the evenings you get some spectacular views at sunset across the bay.

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Harbourside at dusk

and heading up to the town ……

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One of my “watering” holes.

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& the church

Louise headed to the airport on the evening of 22nd June full to the brim of two carafes of wine we had with an early tea in the taverna. The wee waiter in there has taken a shine to us and has sent across free carafes on a number of occasions.

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This is “Jan the Man”  and his boat – the only other yacht with anyone aboard in the harbour.

He was Dutch, a wee bit eccentric, and I think a bit lonely. He was waiting on his wife & friends to join him and they had been delayed a while.

He would pad round each morning in a pair of old grey “Y fronts” that had seen better days, take off his sandals and come aboard at a drop of a hat, looking for conversation.

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It would put ye aff yer bilt egg in the morning.

Now, being an antisocial bugger,  I like company but not 24/7 . I agreed to dinner on his boat one night, and very nice of him to ask  as well. I was to make salad as I explained my culinary skills were limited, very limited. Dinner turned out to be white beans in a cheesy sauce Mmmmm. I had taken a couple of bottles of Retsina as well as my salad so all in all a success. He’s in his 70’s and it turns out his hero is Einstein, no faulting him there. The conversation of the night went along the lines of “Do you know the smallest particle, Gordon? “ Well I do, so we got on fine in a sort of eccentric way.

Another day he scurried round to advise he had been doing his (meagre) laundry when his favourite underpants disappeared in a gust of wind into the harbour (Gawd knows what the favourites were like!) and he had to strip off, dive in and retrieve them – he then found himself naked and unable to climb out and not really wanting to call for Greek assistance as they sort of frown on that sort of naked cavorting. Anyhow he managed to scramble out to tell the tale. lol, what a man.

A few minor boaty maintenance tasks were completed.

I sold my old solar panel & controller I had kept just in case the new set up was insufficient (which it wasn’t). Louise will be happy her view out the back of the boat will be less obstructed now, as is Jan. I helped him install it on his boat; you can see it tilted on his frame in the picture of his boat above, bye bye SP & thanks for all your photons ( Sorry still in Einstein mode).

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This is Lily’s plush sun awning.

Its our old Avon Dinghy bag supported between the baby stay & mast. As you can see it has an integral hammock as yet untested but the shade itself is a big success and can stay in place even while sailing. Oh dear ! I can hear my old skipper Kevin sucking his teeth, back in Ireland , from here lol.

The big monster bag immediately in front of the spray hood is our new dinghy & bag

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CORS

I found some fisherman’s netting, cut it to size and replaced my old, now green with algae, tee-shirt with it. Lily’s new plush Cat Overboard Recover System – It’s an Irish system. CORS .

I went for a walk one day to free up my knee. Lemnos is very fertile and as I was admiring the view I didn’t see the snake skin in front of me, when I did , I thought it was alive, rubber pants job!

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Hissing Sid no more

I visited the Military Cemetery for those killed in the Gallipoli campaign. The war graves commission, rightly, keep these places immaculate. A very sobering & sad place but at the same time very serene.

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Some very poignant inscriptions.

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I left with Eric Bogle songs (Flowers of the Forrest / Green Fields of France playing in my head) .

On a happier note my pals Billy & Jayne sent me pictures of their new boat “Dignity”  back in Scotland.

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What a beauty Eh ?

Myrina – On the quay

The electrical storm came and went but not with the expected ferocity forecast, however another more severe weather system was promising to pass through in a couple of days, so given space on the quay we moved there. Of course Lily was free to wander again, which we like to do every so often, despite my stress levels.

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Where will I go next , I wonder ?

We met up with a German couple who came alongside us on one side, Markus & Isabelle. They had been anchored about as long as us out in the bay. On the other a French boat with six people – they all liked cats and Lily especially so it wasn’t too bad on that front – Lily believing that every boat is entitled to be explored. Including the big tour boat at the end of the quay.

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Lemnos seems to be a quite cat tolerant place, lots of collared cats, thses two sat in residence outside their owners jewelery store gazing in quite happily , going nowhere – can I have one like that ….please!

Markus & Isabelle hired a car and kindly picked up packs of water for us saving more humphing. I had already walked a fair distance to fill up two jerry cans with diesel. Laundry completed and boat cleaned & refueled nothing else to do other than eat, drink, swim & sleep until the weather front has passed…………..

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Just some random pictures of our evenings out, doing just that

Or so we thought……..

Louise was off the boat , shopping I think, when her sister messaged us to tell us she had taken not well during a walking holiday on the West Highland Way, back in Scotland. Extreme pains in her back & unable to move she was taken by ambulance to hospital.

To cut a long story short we decided it was best if Louise returned to Scotland in short order, so her flight was booked for the 22nd from Lemnos.

The only decision now was do Lily & I stay in Myrina or return to Moudhros?

There were more chances I could have anchor dragging or anchor fouling problems with other boats in Myrina harbour & having only myself to deal with it may have been possible but difficult.

Anchoring back out in the bay was also ruled out as we didn’t know how long Louise was going to be away.

So Moudhros it was, and if I encountered any issues there, I would  sail myself back down to Mytilini Marina on Lesbos.

Walk over to Ormos (Bay) Platy

Well we are still on anchor in the same spot, the new dinghy, electric motor and platform certainly make going ashore less of an ordeal even though the dinghy itself is a bit larger than expected. In hindsight perhaps we should’ve gone for a 230 instead of a 250. But we are both delighted with it no matter.

Today we took it to the opposite side of the bay from the quay and set off on a walk over to Ormos Platy.

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We had anchored here two years back, again a very pretty outlook only marred by the occasional speedboat from the Mark Warner resort towing couches past with screaming occupants, but all that ceased at 17:00 when the beach closed and it was then idyllic.

We hadn’t managed ashore back then hence the reason we wanted to walk over and explore a bit.

Some nice boutique hotels in the resort and have to say even the Mark Warner resort was OK. We had a walk around, pretending we were just other Brit holiday makers. Think both our bodies are now past Surf, Sail & Cycling – well who knows!

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Looking back at Myrina (Camira 2nd from right)

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& harbour breakwater peeking out

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Ormos Platy – the MW resort is at the far end

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Our anchor spot at the other end had been just about in the  lighter shallow patch behind Louise’s right shoulder

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A deserted beach in the bay- where’s “Wilson” & Tom Hanks ?

Think I would like a house on Lemnos, for a wee while anyway. It has a nice atmosphere and not overly touristy, probably as a result of its geographical situation quite far out in the Aegean.

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The game changer

On the way back another dinghy had joined us & tied up to our tree – the cheek of that!

Myrina – On anchor

After 9 enjoyable nights in Moudhros we felt like a change and we set off at 10:00 on Monday 6th June for Myrina , a very pretty port & town just under 20 miles around the island to the NW.

The Port Police in Moudhros even gave us a discounted rate – you normally pay more if berthed alongside (like we were). They charged 42 Euros for 9 days , free water & electricity – can’t complain!

50 Euros per night was the cheapest in Italy! and sometimes no water or electricity – that said in Capri for 105 Euros they did send a golf buggy to take you to the toilets, lol.

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 I kept the invoice for fun. The next day wasn’t fun however – we were out of Europe !

It was a calm passage of just under 4 hours. I see from the log we motored slowly for a while rounding Nisos Kompri & Kastri , at the entrance to Moudhros bay (waypoint No#2) to try to catch some fish, but just after 11:00 gave up , again !

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Passage Moudhros – Myrina.

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Nisos (Islands) Kompri & Kastri

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We are anchored just about where the pink anchor is above.

We anchored at 14:00 in Myrina bay after a couple of attempts. Seem to remember that from being here two years ago, but once the anchor is in it’s fine. We are expecting a blow & storms in a few days time so that will be the test. Seem to remember that as well from the last time !

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It’s just as pretty as we remembered and, at least for now, relatively quiet, only us and one other boat on anchor and the quay about a half full.

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Anchored just off the beach

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The new platform & ladder getting put to the test.

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New place ….. I’d better inspect.

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Aye that’ s right, just leave me here with cat food while you two bugger off ashore for a meal eh ? There’ll be no kisses on your return, just remember that.

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Dinghy ashore & drinks before dinner – its a hard life.

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Kosmos Taverna and the ever present “Holy Mountain” Athos in the distance.

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Aye well ok ,  just a wee kiss though !

Micro Paralia Fanaraki & Havouli Beaches

Chill time !

It’s now nearly June and the temperatures are building fast.

Whilst you can always cool off at the back of the boat with the shower or (if brave) a quick dip in the harbour – only to be considered when very quiet and no boats “polluting” the water, especially the charter ones!

But nothing quite hits the mark like a dip in clear blue seas. There are a number of beaches around Limnos as you can imagine from the indented coastline.

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Limnos Island

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Moudhros Harbour & Town – we are where the little white marker is on the 1st finger at the bottom.

There are two relatively close beaches (Paralia in Greek) , about an 8 km return walk away from Moudhros. Faliraki & Havouli.

1Faliraki has a beach bar and small apartments to let.

Havouli has absolutely nothing just a beautiful beach.

I have only been to Faliraki.

Louise has been to both.

What does that tell you?  lol.

003004005006 Yes, it’s out over that road in the distance !

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On one visit we walked further, past the actual beach, to look at the possibility of anchoring off here. Certainly a beautiful spot but there are a few underwater rocks you would need to be careful of.

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Falaraki Beach in the distance.

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After swimming we had a drink before thinking about trekking back, neither of us are sun worhippers so half an hour usually suits and yes that is Daniel Craig’s body double exiting the sea.

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There are some cracking houses on the walk back – would do me quite happily. Some quirky ones as well – a beautiful wee garden but the house is made of containers must be boiling. We think maybe it’s just a garden plot.

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Moudhros in the distance across the bay on the return

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The pretty “container” flower garden – check out the wee church feature in the centre.

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Finally back “home” in the toon centre.

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Havouli beach in the distance – another day.

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Totally deserted !

Windy BBQ Moudhros Quay

I think I mentioned that Michelle & Chris, the Kiwis, were here in the previous blog. So too were another three boats – Italian (Christina & Louis), English (Cherry & Hugh), German (Liz & Johannes).

Liz and Johannes were late arrivals on their very small motor cruiser. They had travelled down the German rivers and canals to the Black Sea and then through Istanbul, Turkey. What this meant was that in order to “Enter Greece officially” they had to arrive at an entry port (and check in with Customs, Port Police, Immigration etal) which Moudhros unfortunately is not. They had never been in “open waters “other than a wee bit of the Black Sea and a calm short crossing from the Dardanelles. They had visited the Moudhros Port Police and they had said that they needed to check in around at Myrina and they should leave immediately a three hour plus trip. Now it was blowing a real hoolie & I for one would not wanted to leave port and we were all a bit concerned for them. Michelle & I suggested they revisit the Police and say that they would go as soon as possible but were a bit worried about leaving in this weather. The police were OK about it (as we thought they would) and even said they could even go ashore which strictly they shouldn’t.

Result #1

Now the BBQ had been Hugh’s idea early on the Sunday morning when it was calm. He was providing the actual BBQ equipment and we were really lucky the shops AND the butchers here were open on a Sunday so Louise & Michelle headed up to the village and stocked up on things to cook. The BBQ was on.

Result #2

We hunkered down behind the wall at the fishermen’s awning and had a great time.

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Hugh did well getting the actual BBQ alight and cooking all the food.

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The Italians who were in there mid to late seventies brought the fish they had caught and prepared as well as some lovely Italian wine. We brought the trusty Greek plastic bottled stuff! At the end of the evening while clearing up we noticed that Christina was using our wine to clean the tables! She must have thought it that bad it was some sort of surface cleaner, lol.

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I was the official event photographer – here are some of the pics.

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“Five” leave Seagull Island

I had been seeking a justification for the Enid “Blytonish” title of this particular blog but unfortunately we only have a famous three not five on board….. Or do we?

I had forgotten about:

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Padstow Bear

A handmade bear by Ann-Marie, given to us as a present, way back in Padstow, not long after we had crossed the Irish sea together on our inaugural night crossing from Howth – He was her 1st of many productions, a very talented lady.

and:

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Scruff

Yet another present from way back in the day. On a weekend sail to Tabert Loch Fyne in the company of yacht Aquarius, Susan had bought us this finger puppet, and he has been tethered at the top of one of our grab handles ever since.

Both now very seasoned sailors, they no longer suffer from Mal de Mer.

So there we have it – “Gordo, Lou, Lily, Padstow Bear & Scruff”

And yes the skipper has lost it, yet again!

Anyhow the original plan was to head around to Mythimna on the NW of Lesbos for a couple of days before striking off for Lemnos.

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From the log book I see we upped anchor and were off just before 07:30 in calm seas with the main sail & motor sailing. At 10:30 just abeam Sykiamos on the north coast of Lesbos the wind picked up and we decided to just continue all the way to Lemnos, 72 miles away. It would take us around 18 hours, a night sail and a night anchoring, but we were sure we had picked a suitable destination and back up. Initial intentions were actually to enter into Moudhros bay to an anchorage we had used before in southerlies but in the end with light winds we chose Ormos Pavlou. A bay on the south coast.

We arrived at 00:30 and had the anchor happily secured in the blackness at 00:45 (waypoint number 3) followed swiftly by two large G&T’s and bed.

It had been a long day – 17 hours with the wind dying just as we were crossing very busy shipping lanes followed by the forward navigation lights having given up the ghost just after sunset! Lucky white heather.

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Our anchorage the next morning.

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Two of the famous five were loathed to get up for the wee 3 hour jaunt round to Moudhros. (Chequered flag waypoint)

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The entrance to Moudhros bay

But by 11:00 were we tied up alongside in front of Michelle & Tuffers, the two Kiwis we had met in Scala Loutra, when they had wrapped their prop and he had needed stitches as result of trying free it.

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Moudhros harbour

Still a little tired we had lunch (2 hours old fresh sardines from local fishermen who were also in the taverna).

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Lunch

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An old “anchor”

and that night after a wander, dinner in the same place next to the harbour.

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Dinner

Lemnos, one of our favourite destinations reached.