I decided to hire a scooter for a couple of days to see the island.

Louise was keen to see the Chora, the little village nestling in the rocks under the fortress, 6 km up the hill from the port. We planned to have dinner there but she’s not too keen on long distances because her knees get very stiff after a while.

So it was a day & a bit of boy’s toys.

I had planned just travelling around the island  before picking Louise up at lunchtime and the following morning visiting the Sanctuary of the Great Gods.

The roads were remarkably good which was excellent as it allowed reasonable speeds I was normally not allowed to go at!

1^st was up to the fortress. You can only get so far by transport then it’s on foot through the old cobbled alleyways.

                  

The fortress & village

Next was up the coast to Scala Therma where allegedly you could take your boat in, but only after you checked with the coastguard back in Kamariatissa if it was safe to do so. I didn’t bother! The entrance was about 1 foot deep at best. Very nice though.

Scala Therma & harbour

The village of Therma itself with its hot springs and new age hippy community lies 700m south of the harbour. I’m sure I saw Swampy, the tree hugger from the 80’s there.

     

Therma & the New Age Hippies

Then it was off to the end of the island on my very own route 66 before returning to the boat to pick Louise up for a wee trip to the south of the island then dinner

  

End of the road it just runs out at the beach, Turkey in the distance

   

Pre dinner explore

    

Dinner up the Chora

Then back to the boat in the dark where Lily was rewarded for her time alone with a plastic bag & a bit of bungy, lol

 

Until recently Samothraki has not had a secure harbour and has remained a solitary island shrouded in mystery. It’s a forbidding looking place, a gigantic lump of marble rising up to 5,200 ft at the summit of Mount Fengari.

Ak (Cape) Akrotiri forms a shallow bay in which the harbour of Kamariotissa nestles. It is essentially a small fishing hamlet and the ferry port for Samothraki.

It has the usual smattering of tavernas, mini markets and scooter hire places. It’s a nice wee village from which to explore the rest of the island, which we plan to do later.

    

Harbour views and Camira’s washing oot to dry !

 

The main street & church

 

“Ach” he’s still not open !

“Ah well , just wake me when he opens then”

14th August

Next passage was 23 miles back northwards to Port Lagos. We wanted to visit here because it looked interesting for the canal like entrance and the surrounding wetlands that we planned to visit for see the wild birdlife. Louise will no doubt be ecstatic.

It would also be a better kick off point back southwards to Samothraki Island.

    

The canal entrance approach and lagoon

   

The quayside and surrounds

We arrived just after 16:00 and tied up near the boatyard. The boatyard owner let us use his electricity saying we could settle up when we left (as planned!) in 3 to 4 days time.

As it turns out we left the very next day which was such a pity as the place seemed so quiet & inviting and the people so friendly.

Unfortunately however Lily had returned to the boat without her tracker collar that evening which we traced to a wire fence she had obviously scampered under.

Later that night we think we knew the reason. There were packs of wild dogs roaming nearby. We didn’t think it would be a safe place to let her run free.

So after a brief stay we left the next day.

Both the boat yard owner and the port police took no money for the night’s stay or electricity.

Renate & Wolfgang however had a difficult time with the port police as they wanted to leave but the port police couldn’t take the money until the next day and they were banning them from leaving! It got sorted in the end but just shows it just depends who you get.

It was a shame we couldn’t stay longer but Samothraki here we come.

It is 36 miles south to Samothraki  we left at 10:45 and arrived at 19:30 we had to motor sail 5 hours. It was a horrible passage

On one of our sailing spells a bigger faster Austrian boat was passing us and their little dog must have heard us shouting across to one another and rushed up from the cabin and dived off the back of the boat !

One of the Austrian crew dived in the water as his boat kept going. We hove too but he shouted all was OK and his boat was now turning back to him. The little dog was now on his shoulders . We waited anyhow until we saw them picked up. They understandably headed back north presumably to let the wee thing recuperate .

We made our mind up then we would need to get a float for Lily in the same situation she wouldn’t sit on my shoulders

Approaching Kamariotissa , Samothraki

We arrived to find the small quay side bunged and everyone averting their eyes in case you asked to raft alongside them , lol.

I picked a largish chartered yacht with no one aboard and we tied up to that.

Couldn’t have chosen better – the young skipper on his return was charm itself. His name was Amon ( His mum was hippyish and named him after the Egyptian sun god) . We invited him on board Camira for a drink.

After 3 bottles of wine and a couple of whisky’s we said our good nights – they were leaving at 06:00 so an early start for us all !!. He was studying for his Yactmaster and was over the moon when we gave hime a copy of the RYA handbook. Wish him well a really nice guy, but he owes me a charger dongle ….  bugger forgot to give it back ! lol.

  

Drinks on Camira

On Thursday 8^th August we decided to head back to Thassos and the main port Thassos town at the north of the island.

We motor sailed from the anchorage to the exit of the bay at “Sardine Beach”, (the most crammed in beach we have ever seen) to get a better wind angle for crossing back to the island.

It was a nice gentle sail but a bit more wind would have been perfect, but Siga Siga. In the end we changed our destination as we got more & more headed by the wind and went back to anchor in Ormos Prinos. A good wee sail 5 hours. Lily, as expected, finaly discovered the boom during her mad hour at dusk.

   

Sunset Ormos Prinos, Thassos

On the Saturday we completed the final distance to Thassos town. Renate & Wolfgang were there and we also met new sailors Fergus & Ali from Aviemore.

    

The ancient harbour and surrounds

I liked Thassos town but I think Louise found it a bit too touristy. She had had in her mind that Thassos Island would be deserted. The closeness to the mainland and the numerous ferries make it an easy and busy destination.

I climbed all the way up to a promised spectacular view from the ancient amphitheatre only to find it closed for renovation! Need to treat myself to a beer when I get back down!

 

The climb

The view from the beer

View from the back ofthe boat, lol

  

Thassos town by night & Renate

After 4 enjoyable days we again decided to head north to the mainland, this time further east to Port Lagos. We are getting closer to Turkey all the time so Istanbul may yet be an option?

It came close tonot being an option for Lily though. She decided to stowaway under the dingy of a departing Italian Yacht. Only Louise’s eagle eyes averted the illegal passenger. maybe she wants to be like the cartoon cat “Garfield” who eats lasagne?

After a couple of days on the 2nd August we decided to head to the mainland 15 miles or so NW.

The water is not very deep up here and has shoaling water all the way east to the Greek border with Turkey, perhaps the reason for the gas platforms, and the many flat bottomed ferries that ply their trade in the strait between Thassos and the mainland that you need to dodge.

Elevtheron Bay itself is quite large and has an impressive Castle at its western end, the tourist resort town of Nea Perama on the long beach in the middle and a fishing wharf and boat yard at the eastern end. This affords the best shelter from the prevailing winds so it was here we anchored.

   

Anchorage Elevtheron Bay

A lot of the northern resorts are now frequented by Bulgarians & Romanians. Some of the Greeks we got talking too were not so enamoured with this change. They do seem a bit blunt and ill mannered but perhaps that is just a hangover from coming out of a communist regime. In discussion with Paul later he reckoned it was because no one used to talk to each other in those parts in the old days. However Louise learned to say “Good Morning “in Romanian on Google and surprised the people on another boat the next day. They were delighted and really friendly, so I guess just like everywhere you’ve got good uns and bad uns.

It wasn’t too far a walk into Perama past the boatyard.

         

Nea Perama

We had lunch in Perama and got talking to an Italian at the next table who was married to a Romanian. Both his wife and mother in law were with him. All he ordered was fish and vegetables, Mussels, Calamari, Fish & loads of it! He was giggling his way through it all while explaining to us how the mother in law hated fish & vegetables and only liked meat, it was hilarious the look on her face as each dish was brought out, lol.

The engine water pump had developed a leak and needed to be rebuilt with new seals. The nearest big town was Kavala only 8 miles further along were I was likely to get the bits I needed.

 

Approach & view of Kavala from Pontoon

It’s a strange set up in Kavala – the “Yacht Club” is private and in the centre of town. However one outer pontoon is supposedly for visitors, but you don’t pay the yacht club rather the Port Police in a building some distance away in the centre. I tried unsuccessfully to pay on three separate occasions but eventually gave up.

We bumped into Renate & Wolfgang who had somehow managed to secure a prized inside berth, but only for one night until they too were turfed out onto the poor man’s pontoon. “Sorry it’s difficult – the marina is private” but no one ever took up these “private” berths.

The chandlers in Kavala was marvelous. He had the parts ordered up and delivered in 3 hours! Fantastic service

We really liked Kavala and it was such a pity we would have stayed a whole lot longer had it not been for the berth which was untenable when the high speed ferry arrived and departed. We felt sorry for the owners of a lovely Halberg Rassy from Troon that had been left while they had presumably gone home. I wouldn’t have been happy leaving it there.

Heading out to explore Kavala in the early evening and  find somewhere to eat.

     

We happened on a restaurant by accident we liked the look of and got the last street side table. It was one of the best meals we’ve had in Greece and later had people queuing for a place. Lucky find – it turned out the No. 1 on trip advisor.

     

Night out in Kavala

On Wednesday 7^th having rebuilt the pump and changed the oil we headed back to Elevtheron with the hope of anchoring under the castle this time. However the wind direction wasn’t suitable so after a trip around the bay we fetched back up in “Fish Corner”

This round lump of marble separated from the mainland by a shallow sea strait enjoyed some power and prosperity in ancient times from Thasian gold mines. Today its prosperity is based on the natural beauty of the island: its sandy beaches, pine clad hills and ancient monuments attract a growing number of tourists each year. Us amongst them.

Our planned passage would be to Limenaria on the south west coast. An overnight passage of about 55 miles. It took us 13 hours with over half of that sailing.

Having rowed ashore for our take away pizza we left Mirini, Lemnos at 20:30.

There was a beautiful sunset over Mount Athos. We expected easterlies around midnight just as we passed the lee of the north of Lemnos and I note from the log that at 00:30 we were indeed under a reefed main & foresail. Around 06:00 we had big seas on the beam that did not lessen until we were at our waypoint 3 miles SE of Limenaria.

On Monday morning at 09:45 we arrived. Inside the harbour a boat was just leaving so we slotted into his berth alongside. Lily was crazy to get off the boat and jumped before we even had the passarelle boarding ladder sorted ……… more later!!

 

Harbour entrance & Limenaria

We went for a sleep. You are always tired after a night passage. We awoke to find Lily had arrived back on board with her paws caked in melting tar. A fraught day followed. We tried to get most of it off with washing up liquid. Apparently tar is very toxic to cats if they ingest it, and it can be fatal. Louise managed to track down a vet and persuaded him to let us come along immediately not wanting to wait hours until he opened in the evening. It required an anaesthetic to knock her out and cut out, shave then clean the mess. The vet was great .He didn’t think there would be further problems other than tender paws but we would stay within reach over the next couple of days just in case. It took her 8 hours to start to come around. Guess who’s confined to quarters!

  

Limenaria was nothing special. We found it dusty and a bit tacky, but pleasant all the same

   

Limenaria

On the Tuesday the plan was to move around to Scala Marion a wee cove not far from Limenaria. We anchored just off the beach behind the breakwater. It was quite exposed but only light winds were expected and the anchor was well in, and it was lovely ……… that was until a group with a ghetto blaster arrived at 19:00 You would not have believed the volume not to mention the crap music. Even the other beach users were annoyed, very unusual for the Greeks as noise is just part of their culture. I have a video but unfortunately no pics.

We left and headed for Skala Kallirakhis, hoping to anchor outside the harbour but there was just too much weed to try anchoring. Our only option now was Ormos Prinos but it was now already sunset and we would arrive after dark.

 

Finally at 21:30 we rounded the shoal water of Ak Prinos and anchored in the bay just north of the ferry terminal. A hotel nearby was also playing disco but at least it was 80’s stuff. Louise thoroughly enjoyed it texting her pal Sheena each time a track reminded her of their holidays in Greece in the 80’s. I was even able to sneak in some more wine than usual. Lol

All in all it’s been an eventful introduction to Thassos.

  

Ormos Prinos

We will say here another day perhaps and then decide what’s what.

After two nights in Ormos Plati we were driven out by the combined attack of the beach bar music until the wee small hours and the relentless flies that seem to have arrived.

So on Thursday about 09:30 we upped anchor and set off for the west cove of Ormos Thanos just under 4 miles away. It was very picturesque and seemed ideal. The flies however had followed us, perhaps I should shower?

  

Ormos Thanos

The main issue however was the direction of the waves, although slight, we were pitching from side to side and it deffy wouldn’t have been comfortable to (not) sleep through.

On we go again then ………. just after 13:00 we set off to the next bay, Ormos Pavlou. It looked more promising. Only problem though was that by now the wind had really gotten going and outside the lee of the bay we were met with white horses coming from the direction we wished to go. After a brave attempt that was abandoned as well. Back to Ormos Plati and the flies it was, where at 15:00 we dropped anchor again in the same spot.

  

Lily discovered the spray hood shade and “Cat Trampoline”

Friday night & Saturday morning was spent scrubbing Camira’s  bum. A long job with a snorkel, especially the keel but she did prove to be a lot faster through the water after it. My feet however took a battering, lol.

 Not the prettiest feet you’ll agree even before my fight with the underside of the boat.

Having finished cleaning we headed back to Mirina bay to anchor and provision up for the next passage up north to Thassos. It was looking good for Sunday or Monday.

Of course we had to have a farewell meal. We went back to Cosmos again.

 

Ferry leaving as we arrive

 

Sunset in the bay

  

On our way to & in Cosmos Taverna

On Monday we eventually arrived and anchored at the east side of Ormos Platy, after wrongly identifying another bay. How ever did we get here from Scotland?

There is a large reef you have to avoid in the way in but it is well marked.

The bay has a significant area cordoned off for the Mark Warner Club, but there is still plenty of room and as a bonus you are able to watch the dinghies and windsurfers.

  

Sunset & Mark Warner Club

We have noticed on our travels a lot of development that appears almost finished but no occupation, perhaps as aresult of the austerity measures? who knows

Unoccupied development

The next day we moved to the west side when two other yachts that had been there left.

A very peaceful spot after the water-skiing boat had finished for the night … or at least it was the 1^st night !

     

The east side – very pretty

On the Sunday while out for a walk Louise happened on some sort of celebration, outside the town hall.

We are not sure what they were celebrating but the costumes were nice.

    

The Dancers

Lily, seemingly unimpressed, took up residence on the “Owl & Pussycat”

 

Pussycat but no owl

Tomorrow the plan was to leave and head round to Ormos Platy , a bay just round the corner a few miles.

This sailing lark is becoming far too sociable.

Having been invited onto a boat for a drink you then feel, rightly, obliged in return to invite them back onto yours. This of course is multiplied by the factor of how many boats are originally involved.

This situation gave rise to the most people we have ever squeezed into Camira’s cockpit, I think. Though there were some close calls back on the west coast of Scotland.

So, the story so far…. On the Tuesday night we were invited on Jill & Steve’s boat, next to us. They had invited the Swedes Haakan & Eva, and their own pals Mike & Claire. On Wednesday the same number on Sally the Swedish boat. We added to the mix on Thursday by adding in our German pals Wolfgang & Renate on Camira

With only a day’s respite we ended going out on the Saturday ashore for  sundowners which we managed to keep to that. We didn’t go on for dinner.

Motley crew on “Sally”

 

10 bods and associated feet on “Camira”

    

Drinks in the appropriately named Sunset Bar