Again I take this opportunity to update our blog whilst currently (6th September) being meltemi bound in a bay in the North of Paros, where it looks like we might be for a while yet!

Anyhow I am getting ahead of myself.

We had left Kalymnos on the Wednesday 4^th August our ultimate destination being Nisiros, of the volcano & James Bond fame. We spent the Thursday night anchored in Pserimos and headed off the next day for Nisiros.

The planned route to Nisiros

Nisiros is also a favourite last day stopping off point for the charter boats returning to Kos, so best avoided on Thurday’s / Friday’s. However 3 miles NW of Nisiros is a wide bay on the south coast of Nisos Yiali which offers some shelter from the meltemi. The holding is fantastic, the anchor completely disappears into the sandy bottom.

The island is scarred by extensive quarries but after 5 o clock all work shuts down and has (for me at least) some charm. It was here I met my chum from Pakistan who had floated out on his rubber ring after his work shift to say hello and “tap a fag”. We don’t smoke so unfortunately he had no joy there. Turns out he was from Rawalpindi, where I had stayed when I was 4. He has been working heavy excavation machinery, trucks and loaders for the last three years on Nyali. Don’t know if you can see the tiered levels in the pictures with the long drop offs below. Think you must need a steady nerve. After amiably passing 20 minutes or so chatting he set off paddling ashore again, presumably for his tea.

Nisos Yiali

Next day we chanced Nisiros harbour in the hope of a space and were quite lucky. The prices like everywhere in Greece have rocketed but we managed to secure a reasonable deal for 4 days. The plan being to clean ourselves & the boat. There are laundry & proper showering facilities here and Louise tends to get to a “Grubbiness threshold” after which it is dangerous to continue on passage.

It was also nice to allow Lily some time free ashore off the boat ………………

We visited Ellenis & Aphrodite tavernas as it was still too hot to cook.

I am always reticent about leaving Lily out after sundown but have recently been persuaded to do so as she seems to return to the boat and just wait for us. This was the case on the Saturday when we came back – she was on the boat, but seemed very quiet. The next day she wouldn’t let us near her so it was impossible to determine the cause of the discomfort – an injury / poison or just out of sorts? However she got no better so the plan was for Louise to take her on the ferry back to Kos to a vet & I would stay with the boat. The weather was wild however & it was not certain the ferry would run, so we decided to!!

A vet appointment was arranged for the Monday evening at 17:00. We just made it getting into Kos marina at 16:30 after a very lumpy and tortuous sail to windward in steady 30 knot winds gusting sometimes to 37. We were reefed down as far as we could be, and even with a scandalised main were getting a battering. It was no fun.

Anyhow the vet advised it was as well we had come, it turned out possibly a cat or small dog bite and it was infected. She knocked her out, drained the wound and gave her antibiotics. She slept it off that night and was confined to quarters on the boat for the next three, to recuperate

Wabbit! , sleeping it off

We visited a couple of our favourite eateries here and Louise took the opportunity to get her hair done (again!) …

The 2nd hairdo in as many weeks , Hrummmmph!

… before, after 4 days in Kos, we set of back to Nisiros via Nyali yet again, to use up our “credit” that the harbour master had very kindly extended for us .

Nisiros from the anchorage in Nyali

Lily eyeing Nisiros in the distance presumably planning revenge

No sooner had we tied up than Lily the wonder cat tries to jump onto the stern of the boat next to us and ends up in the drink! She was out the water in a flash though, straight away up the wall in seconds. She was then forced to have a fresh water shower on Camira.

Drookit & not a happy bunny!        Neither am I that’s my bed, lol.

That’s her now down to 5 lives left and my BP up another few notches.

While in Ellenis again the young waitress and waiter invited us out with the rest of the Greeks after closing for a drink which was lovely but we had to decline as it would be well past Louise’s normal bed time and an early start to boot.

OK so “cat astrophe” over the voyage is resumed.

A bay on the south side of Ak Poundha. Although this bay appears suitable the holding, rock covered by a thin layer of sand and weed is bad. Two tavernas have laid a number of moorings for customers. The bay is surrounded by spectacular pitted cliffs with just a flash of green grass and a few houses at the head.

You can go mountain walking here but the heat just now is reaching 39 and sometimes over 40 degrees, so you’d have to be crazy.

It was nice to be somewhere new. We ate in the taverna twice and had a beer in the beach cafe just to fill up our water jerry cans.

It can be busy with charter boats on the first and last days of the weeks hire as it’s an easy hop to or from Kos. It was reasonably quiet when we visited and it seems quite popular as a beach day out for tourists from other parts of Kalymnos

Thursday 29^th July we said our goodbyes (how many is that now?) to Brian & Sara and continued our route south to Leros, firstly anchored in Lakki harbour and then on to Xerocambos a bay on the south.

For those of you unhappily following my efforts at renewing my British Passport the following update is the latest in the saga that started in May.

I have today now received a further email requiring me to download, print off, sign and return an affirmation that: I am now back in Scotland and amongst other legal bumf that I don’t owe HMG any money? And, not least, I was not born of a surrogacy arrangement?

I kid you not, and despite explaining our situation that we are travelling umpteen times they seem to NEED me to be back in Scotland.

OK so I am then! and I will sign the bloody form! –I’ll just nick down to the local printers then visit the post office to complete, lol.

In fact that is exactly what I did, I found a printer but the post office in Lakki was closed so we had to hire a scooter to head to Alindi on the other side of the island to post it. I sent it SAE to Diane for onward posting from blighty in the hope of fooling them I was in fact in bonny Scotland!

Hooray! It worked and I am now the (proud?) owner of a post Brexit GB passport, or at least Diane has it. Finally though, if she gets caught with it going through passport control bringing it to me they will confiscate it I am told.

So now I have both my Irish & UK passports I’m sure Judy Dench sorts this out much quicker for 007.

We stocked up at the supermarket in Lakki and filled our water tanks then headed to Xerocambos for a day, our kicking off point for Kalymnos and a new place we have never visited Ormos Palionisi on the east coast of Kalymnos

Fish taverna Kyma in Xerocambos, Leros

Its fishy I’m just drinking beer though eh ?

We left Marathrocampos to head south thus postponing our plan to visit Fourni & Ikaria until later when the weather would be more accommodating.

It was a six hour / 24 mile passage south back to the famous “Keftededes” Taverna in Patmos. Noooooooooo! We hoped not to be here too long!

Aye well ………………. it was another 5 days before the weather let us continue to Lipsi and then only under two reefs in the main & genoa.

Sara & Brian , now in the water, had taken the opportunity to head down to Lipsi in the calm weather. We think Sara has lost confidence in the sailing and the boat and it will take a wee while to build it back up. In addition Pepper their dog is not doing too well and they are just keeping him as comfortable as possible until the sad inevitable decision will need to be taken, very sad.

We arranged to meet them at their boat in the harbour quay. They had booked Manolisis’ restaurant for the four of us.

It turned into an ouzo & retsina fest ending well past midnight with us walking back to Katsidia bay where we were anchored and Brian not remembering the latter stages of the night!

Louise was not very well the next day but still we managed the walk in to get water. I did point out the last time it happened was also on Lipsi and at her instigation. Perhaps a warning for the future! Lol.

Sleeping it off

Fishermen in the ouzo taverna of the night before and me in the distance with out water

That night we had dinner in Delilah’s Taverna in Katsidia bay. It’s a tad expensive but really good food and neither of us fancied the walk back into Lipsi town.

Delilah’s Taverna Katsadia bay. As you can see Louise on the peach tea but from memory she had wine later !

We had been to Marathrocampos by car but never by boat. It had been recommended by many people. It has a small harbour with, at present, free water and electricity and an assortment of tavernas, a pizzeria, a reasonable supermarket and even a chandlery.

The passage is westward along the south coast of Samos then north west between the island of Samiopoula and the mainland. In total it was 19 miles but we split the journey anchoring under the castle at Pythagorio (outside the now banned bay) to see if it would be suitable for an overnight stop. It was safe enough but just a wee bit too rolly for a comfortable nights anchoring. We had a coffee and a bite to eat then resumed our passage west.

We arrived at 2:00 pm and I reckoned we were small enough to go inside the mole, which we did and tied up alongside. However it turned out to be young guys spot when he returned at 4:00 pm “He had marked it in red”.

Now strictly speaking these harbours are public and usually paid for by EU grants so no one has a right to a permanent berth, but it’s his country so we explained we would only be a few days and could we possibly squeeze in together? Which we did, he only had a wee motorboat and it would have fit in his space 3 times over. I took his number and said I would phone when we were leaving so he could reclaim his full patch. Turns out he, Michalis, was a very pleasant young man, and wished us a happy stay.

Nicolas had been heading to Pyhagorio from Samos the same day to pick up his next visitors when we explained the non-anchoring situation to him. He decided to alter course for Marathrocampos as well and would see us there. I think this will now be his port of choice for picking up his visitors.

We had four lovely days here and we all said we would like to come back later in the year but as usual the weather dictated our departure to get somewhere safe for the usual expected blow. In hindsight we would have been better just seeing it out here. Hey ho

Marathrocampos harbour and you CAN see “his red mark”

Out on the town  – with the heat there has not been much cooking done on the boat.

Really nice wee place.

Whilst waiting for Diane in Samos 10 days or so ago I took the opportunity to find an electrical store & bought some wiring to replace the existing solar panel wiring, and hey we have full charging capacity – well done Kleanthis!

However as is the way with boats one problem solved means another one will surely follow…………

We have an oil leak from the engine. It is very clean oil which made me think it must be coming from the gearbox. Well after days of cleaning, drying, searching and helpful input from friends, the Penta Engine group on facebook and the Moody Owners Association I have narrowed it down to either a worn seal on the gearbox or a worn seal on the crankshaft, my bet is the former as the oil looks like it’s just out the tin. In any event it will be a gearbox out job this winter. In the meantime as long as I check the levels we should be OK for the rest of the season with the only nuisance value being the mess in the sump to mop up occasionally.

We are becoming a bit Dodecanesed out, which is a bit rich given we pottered about the same haunts on the Clyde & west coast for years.

So we thought we would try some places we haven’t yet visited and then head for Astipalaia and the Cyclades. The only problem being the Cyclades are probably the windiest part of the Aegean when the Melteme is blowing, which it is!

We are still in Posidonio today, Diane having left yesterday, and chaos has resumed, the Turks are back in the anchorage. It’s a short hop from Kussadassi for them. They really shouldn’t be here though as the sea borders are still closed between Greece & Turkey. As usual it’s mayhem – two boats one anchor, tied together with rope and only 5 meters of chain out and of course across our anchor. They are unbelievable I think they give qualifications away with cornflakes in Turkey, lol.

The plan tomorrow then is to head to Marathrocampos of the previously aborted attempt abortive and perhaps then across to Fournoi & Ikaria (Louise has always wanted to visit Ikaria but its best only in calm weather) before turning south yet again.

We had a great wee sail up to Posidonio with full sail and seeing speeds of 7.5 knots and made it in record time.

We booked Diane a taxi direct from here to the airport for the next day so she could have more time relaxing and a last meal ashore at the wee taverna “Maria” (outside which Louise had had her haircut by Jessica!)

I have to say that since we provisioned, the breakfasts have been good on Camira.

Well all to soon it was time to say goodbye. It was unfortunate about the weather but we think she thoroughly enjoyed herself anyway. So much so she’s booked a return slot for some time after September 9^th .

Oh no what have we done! lol

Thus ends the “luxury cruise” washing in sea water and getting your bum wet in the dinghy and having limited use of fresh water, not to mention the toilet regime – she did get a shower in the taverna for her flight home though. She still had to carry the rubbish ashore along with her luggage, lol.

And its good bye from me

And just for Diane a picture of my “Greek Lover’s Shirt”

Having spent 4 days of Diane’s holiday in Patmos I was glad at least to have a wee break in the weather to allow us to get to Lipsi and the famous manolis tastes restaurant. It was only 10 miles to Katsidia bay and when we got there it was crammed full of charter catamarans. We managed to squeeze in but Nicolas had to resort to the other one a bit over.

We had arranged to meet ashore , go for an ouzo or such like then head up to Manolis’s for 8.00pm

Engerland were playing Italy in the final and Diane likes football so we decided to stay on after dinner to watch the game. Sara had contacted me to ensure I was supporting Engerland so I showed my support with the following picture I sent to her, lol.

Couldn’t find my kilt though

We forgot that the little ouzery brings loads of meze with your order which tends to spoil your appetite for your dinner but they are hard to resist. I think it’s one of my favourite and genuine tavernas

The wee ouzery …….followed by

Manolis Tastes Restaurant

We had planned two nights in Lipsi , but unfortunately yet again the weather was not kind and we thought it prudent to head back to Samos for Dianes PCR test and just as well we did . It was not a fun sail bashing into the wind. It took us under just 8 hours bashing to windward but it would’ve been far worse if we had waited the extra day and left very early. Possibly we would not have arrived back in time for her appointment.

When we arrived back in Pythagorio at 6.00 pm we were turned away from the bay – the new berthing company had managed to convince the great and the good to ban anchoring in the bay and now there are warning buoys to that effect.

We refused on a matter of principal to go into the harbour quay and headed back round to the marina. Lily was delighted she will be getting ashore for a bit. It also meant we could all get proper showers etc. As I am writing this we have heard a rumour that they have brought the prices to berth in the quay back down as people were boycotting going there. Still no anchoring in the bay though.

Louise & Diane headed into Samos the next day in a hire car for her PCR and a look around Samos town.

Morning coffee in the Two Spoons Pythagorio

That night we had what has to be our “final leaving do” with Brian ,Sara ,Bruce & Joni surely! We went up to Mytilinii the village not far from our winter house that has a great wee taverna.

The last, last supper ….surely !

The next day we were headed back up to Posidonio for Diane to have a couple of days just chilling in the bay

The plan had roughly been as follows, one or a couple of days in each of the following islands before returning to Samos for a few days for the necessary Covid test in Samos town 72 hours before the return flight.

# 1 Agathonisi

#2 Arki

#3 Lipsi

#4 Patmos

The plan that never happened

It was not to happen, good old Poseidon decided to blow a hoolie for 4 days with the attendant biggish seas. And so after a windy 30 knot sail for the 22 miles to Patmos we were confined to anchor in St George’s bay. Again another brisk 5 hour sail well reefed and sailing all but 40 minutes of it, at least she was getting sailing!

It’s enough to blow yer kecks off …oh aye and that’s mine in the background!

She soon got used to the luxury transportation ashore whereby the skipper ran a shuttle service, thankfully easier one way than the other; the outboard was not working so it was an oar job. At least I was getting some exercise.

And finally seated …….lol

Luckily the bay is lovely and has a taverna. You can also get a taxi into Scala Patmos, the main town and port, which is was Louise & Diane did one day, visiting the Chora and famous monastery of St John.

Up the Chora and a very nice pic of the two of them.

I think Diane was less impressed with the dinghy service on their return in the dark though. I had had a few ouzos in the taverna after dropping them off ashore for a taxi earlier in the evening!

This was a”normal” shuttle in the daylight

We ate in the taverna most nights and by the end of which we nicknamed it the Keftedes (meatball taverna).

The meatball taverna

One day they went ashore for a walk with little money between them but somehow managed to scrimp enough together to enjoy a fabulous breakfast meanwhile the skipper had to be content with a coffee on the boat, Hmmmmff!

Allright for some !

Getting ready to go ashore was a communal affair, all girls together and no show without punch who just loves being brushed.

In addition come siesta time all the bunks were taken up as well !

Same “meatball “ taverna this time she met Nicolas

Despite being marooned for 4 days I think Diane enjoyed just being able to chill.

Very european swimming attire – ooooh errr matron!

Ready to head ashore again

The day before Diane arrived we returned to the marina to clean the boat, provision and arrange a car to surprise her at the airport. She believed she was to get a taxi from Samos airport to the marina not far, about 7km. She was lucky in that she got a direct flight from Edinburgh to Athens overnight and a morning connection Athens to Samos, quite tiring but quicker and less hassle than overnights in hotels.

The flight was due in at 9.00 am and Louise had sorted out a welcoming birthday breakfast and had the boat decorated with balloons and banners. We had warned Lily to be on her best behavior as Diane is scared of cats. As it turns out they we needn’t have worried they took to one another straight away.

After bucks fizz and breakfast Diane was introduced to Joni, Bruce, Brian & Sara and yes again yet another “leaving do” was set up for the end of Diane’s holiday on our return to Samos.

Once settled in we decided to head off that afternoon for Agathanisi 17 miles or so , not a big trip to start her off. We were underway for 5 hours sailing the majority of it. Arriving just after 5:00 o clock

Unfortunately we couldn’t anchor off the beach this time as two other boats were in but instead in the 2^nd bay where we could have walked round to the village and the taverna. As it was we just ate on board as we were all pretty tired by then.

Arrival day and cat introductions