During the day daytripper boats come from Mykonos. Some play their music a bit too loud but they are only there for a short time before heading back to Mykonos when  the island is returned to its beautiful tranquil state. We loved it here, swimming, walking and generally doing very little. Again, this was a place that reminded us of Scotland, maybe a wee bit like Canna in glorious sunshine. We had three lovely days here but we must get moving.

 

      

Sadly, we are not able to wait for Dave and Iain, so near yet so far! We are gutted.

This is how close we where – thats Mykonos Town in the distance

Before leaving Samos we nipped round to the marina to fuel up then made our way to Ormos Agriohio on Nisos Fournoi twenty five miles away. It turned out to be a lovely spot with only us and Nicolas on Syeni in the bay. A quiet night was had by all as we were up  at sparrow fart to do the sixty miles to Nisos Rineia, a small island three miles from Mykonos.

Preparing to anchor

 

At anchor with Nicolas just aft

With very light winds it was a motor job all the way to Nisos Rineia. However, the dawn start was beautiful and very peaceful. Well, that was until Nicolas passed us playing Valkyries throught the VHF at full blast as he passed us. That certainly woke us up as did the dolphins swimming  in our bow wave a couple of times throughout the day. It’s always lovely to get a visit from them. 

 

Dawn after leaving Nisos Fournoi

 

Passing Nisos Ikaria

Dave and Iain arrive in Mykonos next week and we were hoping we could meet up with them. However, the weather ahead isn’t looking great and we  could get held up and miss the weather window for getting further on and out the way of the Meltemi. We will monitor it and see how it goes, but not looking promising.

Slowing down to dodge the traffic

Mykonos

We anchored in Ormos Skhinou, a beautiful bay on Nisos Rineia. Honestly, the water is crystal clear and so so blue. The island is more or less uninhabited, only a few people who do a bit of farming and shooting live here now.

  

Rienia is separated from the Island of Delos by a channel 1 km wide. In the channel there are two rocks, rather than islands, which are called the little Rematiaris and the big Rematiaris. You will find  the ruins of an ancient Greek temple and a Christian church dating back 1900 years. Delos was the spiritual centre of the whole Aegean sea. The Athenians made Delos their sacred island. This meant  that no one should be born or die on the holy island so they opened all the graves of Delos and transferred the bones of the dead into a huge hole in Rienia.

We couldn’t leave Samos without a final visit to Pythagorion and to say goodbye to Diamontes.

We moored up outside the Blue Boat Bar, the noisiest bar in town, but since things are starting to wind down a bit now it didn’t bother us too much.

Gordon drinking Shuma with Diamontes the harbour master in Pythagorion

Nicolas was aready there and Paul and Paulette were there too. We spent the week getting ready for the start of our return journey, cleaning the boat, shopping, re fuelling etc. Obviously the preparations were broken up by aperitiffs on Paul and Paulette’s boat, Nicolas’ boat and our boat, well, why wouldn’t you.   We also visited the Gyros  restaurant and the four trees restaurant, two of our favourites and  cocktails in the Beyond roof bar.

Because of the strong North winds, our sailing area was restricted to certain Islands. It’s amazing how you get  attached to them, so, like Patmos, it was quite sad leaving Samos for the last time. Our return trip will be in the company of Nicolas who is also heading back to Siracusa for the winter. Well, we’ve spent most of the summer with him so it would be silly not to finish it with him. The plan is he gives us, well me really, French lessons and we give him English lessons. So far, he’s doing better than me, my French is abysmal but I can speak more French than I could at the beginning of Summer so at least I’ve made some progress.      

Thoughts are now turning to returning to Siracusa for winter. As we left Patmos for the last time I felt very sad. It’s a lovely island with some great anchorages and has a very peaceful feel about it. I think we understand why Nicolas likes it so much and we will  definitely return here again.

Just as we were clearing the Island there was some fog but nothing too bad and we also got a bit of a sail once it had cleared.

When we arrived at Posidonia we met Richard and his wife that we had briefly chatted to in Agothonisi. They were going ashore for drinks and a bite to eat and asked us along. Turned out a good night and met other friends of theirs, Paul and Paulette from Canada and Sally and her husband who had also been in Agathonisi. You might have guessed, I can’t quite remember everyones names, this is what happens when you dont do the blog right away, lol. 

When Nicolas didn’t get into Agathonisi he went to Livadhia on Patmos so we decided to go there and catch up with him. There was a fair bit of wind so we managed to sail most of the twenty three miles there. It’s a good anchorage, plenty of room and good holding.

 

We had three days here at anchor again, not a lot here, just a nice beach and a couple of beach bar tavernas which are good for morning coffees, all part of Nicolas’ morning ritual. We jumped in a taxi one night and went to the nice Italian restaurant in Scala for dinner. Lovely, what a beautiful place to sit and watch the sunset while sipping a cocktail.

  

We made our way to Agathonisi as we heard from a few people that it was nice. Indeed it was. It is about eighteen miles from Pythagoria most of which we motorsailed to charge the batteries up a bit but we also managed a wee sail for part of the way under genoa only.

 

Agathonisi is very small with only three tavernas a couple of cafe bars and two mini markets, what more can one ask for.

  

It can get a bit busy with boats  but when we arrived it was very quiet. Nicolas wasn’t quite so lucky when he tried to get in a day or two later, there were a few boats taking up the shallower water areas for anchoring so he gave up and headed to Livadhia.

  

We spent four days here just chilling, even had a few hours on the beach.

  

I took the opportunity to hone my rowing skills  which are non existant as the weather was very calm. Good exercise for the bingo wings.

We were visited by “Jaws” but are unsure if it was a motorised model or ther was someone actually inside it !

  

We met a couple of guys, Syd and Marcel who we had a meal ashore with in George’s Taverna then retired to their boat for a “nightcap”.  Definitely a place to return to if we’re ever back in the area.

  

I decided to hire a motor scooter for a day trip around Samos. Louise didnt fancy it as a prolonged stint on a scooter hurts her knees!

I headed off earlyish after bartering the scooter guy down to the price he had charged us earlier in the season. I intended a roughly clockwise trip from Pyhagorion in the SE along the coast to Ireon then up through the mountains to the NW and returning a different route before heading through Mytillini to Vathi and finally back to Pythagorion.

The first stop was out past the airport to Ireon where I planned to stop for coffee. In the event I didn’t stop until much later.

Ireon was a pleasant seaside resort .

Followed by the mountain roads up to Pagondas & Spatherei with great views down Kolpos Marathokampu to the Island of Samiopula. The trip boats from Pythagorion we watch coming back each evening visit here.

The mountain in the distance (top right pic) is Turkey at its closest to Samos

Samiopula                                                         Heading North along the West coast

The North of Samos is open to the Meltemi so there are numerous windmills to take advantage of that but they don’t spoil the mountain villages too much.

The next heading was to Karlovasi, one of the bigger places on the  North coast and then left as far as the road would go to Potami, a beach resort. I did stop for a coffee here. There were some heavy duty “angel type” bikers who eyed me up as I arrived but obviously my 125cc scooter allowed me to meld in without any problems.

You couldn’t get any further round on a bike , I tried but there was only a small walking path.

So I decided to take what I thought what would be a scenic route back up into the mountains heading for one of the highest points on the island.  At this point I was glad Louise wasn’t with me as she would’ve hated it. Unfortunately I don’t have any pics of the actual scramble as I had my hands full, but if you imagine a small & steep Forresty Commission path back home you won’t be too far wrong. It would’ve been great fun on a dirt bike but was challenging on a small wheeled scooter!

The climb up from Karlovassi in the distance and “ Normal “ roads again

It was now lunch time and I was hoping there would be a taverna at Kastanea once I had negotiated the hairpins all the way up . There was and I had lunch at one of the highest points on the island.

      

After lunch I freewheeled most of the way back down and headed back towards Pyhagorion but not before a visit to Vathi , the island capital. Its a big town and probably the main attraction if we were to winter in Samos , the down side would be we would need transport from Samos marina

   

Vathi

Once back in Pythagorion I detoured to see the monastery and Eupalinos’s Tunnel, just above the town.

Its part of an ancient aqueduct and you can walk from one side of the mountain to the other, though not for the claustrophobic. It is 1036 m long and in some parts the height it as low as 1.5m and the width 0.42m. It is therefore advised that “overwieght people, visitors suffering from claustrophobia, panic attacks, lumbago, cardiac or respiratory problems, spinal diseases & musculoskeletal disorders are strongly advised not to enter.” Sounds fun Eh ?

The view down to Pythagorion from the monastery

 

The entrance to the tunnel

Lastly was a visit to what Louise would call “Old Stones”

In the distance just in front of the car park is the old town wall and an ancient burial chamber

 

Presumably these are the one’s that the Lions didnt get ?

Then finally back to Pyhagorion harbour and the boat

PS I am doing this blog retrospectively as a catch up and at the moment we are bouncing about in Kalamata Marina in Feb 2018  with gusts of 40 kts forecast …..oh how I long for the summer

We left Leros on 12 August  for Patmos with a NW wind blowing at 30 kts, it was a motor job given the wind direction. Very uncomfortable with 1.5 m waves slowing us to about 3 kts sometimes. Spent two days in Ayios Yeoryios before setting off for Samos again.

Louise’s morning swim & excercise regime in Ay Yeoryios
As we left Ay Yeorios we were about to put one reef in the main until I saw a yacht further out practically on it’s side and another coming in with little more than a hanky out for sail.
We thought about going back but decided to put two reef in the main and a tiny bit of genoa out. We are so glad we did, it was very windy out there but what a sail we had, getting up to 7 kts even with reefed sails. At times we had waves breaking over us into the cockpit but it was a brilliant sail.
We went into Pythagorion bay which has great holding and normally fine. That’s till a twat arrives! We have seen a lot of things which are not good practice but this guy was unreal. We knew he was going to be a problem as he was trying to set his anchor. It took him about 4/5 attempts, not sure why as its a very good anchorage, but anyway he comes beside us. Lucky white heather! We indicated to him that he was a bit close but it didn’t  discourage him. Anyway, the wind changed and he was close but we decided to leave it. Next morning, he lets out more chain, I told him he would hit us  if the wind changed but he carried on regardless, to the poiint we had to fend him off with the boat hook. A few chioce words were exchanged but for the safety of Camira we moved. What a diddy!
 
Everyone in the bay was up watching him trying to anchor and then again when he let out more chain. Didn’t seem to bother him that people were laughing at him. A couple on a Belgian boat came over that night and asked us ashore fro a beer, I think they felt sorry for us that we had to move.
From here we went to Posidonia, we only did a fly by here before so it was nice to stay for a few days. We had a nice wee spot and had been there about three days by the weekend.
  
Posidonia before the weekend

The weekend is when all the Turkish pop over for a couple of days. Chaos descends! They come in with their fenders out, drop their anchor anywhere and generally create havoc. Once again we had to move as we had one guy already pretty close to us when another two boats came in and shared the one anchor, that was till they got the wash off the coastguard boat passing out in the Strait. I asked them if they were staying the night, which they were, so I just said it’s very friendly but a bit too close for comfort and moved on further out and reset the anchor

Weekend parking, lol
 
Ashore
We met a guy Daniel, from Switzerland in the taverna one night. We had been admiring his boat, an  Amel Santorini, the day before.  He invited us over for coffee the next morning to have a look, it was beautiful. I couldn’t believe it was twenty five years old. First time I’ve been on a boat and had my coffee served with china cups and saucers, sugar bowl and lovely coffee pot. Very nice indeed.
We left Posidonia and did a wee reccy of the bays further on, then went back into Klima bay. Had dinner ashore in the taverna, fantastic linguini marinara recommended by Nicolas.

 
We returned to Pythagorion harbour where we met up with Nicolas who was dropping off his latest guests Ann and Paul.
Diamontes, the harbour master asked us out for Shouma, a drink not unlike Raki. He is quite a character,  Gordon thinks he is like Ernest Hemmingway and it turns out he was a Greek Orthodox priest in the past. Next morning he appears at the boat with a litre of Shouma as a present for Gordon, who he has now named Baby because when he passes in the morning, Gordon is always in bed, sleeping like a baby.

Diamontes
 
Pythagorion castle & town
The local priest is trying to raise funds for the church so they were having a “do” in the carpark at the end of the ferry pier, as you do. Nicolas, Gordon and I headed along, bought some souvlaki, cheese pies, although we are yet to find the cheese and some wine which we enjoyed sitting on the wall while watching the locals dancing to the live music. We finished off the nighwith a cocktail in the rooftop bar Beyond.

Today, Nicolas left for Klima bay for a few days and Gordon has hired a scooter and set off round the island again. I’m taking the chance of updating this which hasn’t been done for quite a while.
It’s now 16.30 and I’m off to the bay for a nice swim.       

Had a nice downwind sail in 20 odd kts of wind fom Arki to Leros under Genoa only. We were heading for Pandeli to anchor in the bay.

 

We visited Pandeli by scooter when we were last in Leros, its a lovely wee place. Went ashore and had dinner in Dimitris which has great views over the bay. That’s Camira second from the right. At least there’s another boat about the same size as us, we’re normally the smallest wherever we go.

   

Pandelli & Dimitris

Next day we went into Leros marina for a couple of days. We need to fill up with water,food and get some laundry done.

  o

South Leros & Kalymnos

Leros is very laid back as I mentioned when we were here before. The people in the town are extremely friendly. I went bikini shopping and Gordon went for a beer, he was carrying some fruit and veg we had bought earlier and the girl in the taverna took it from him and put it in the fridge till he was leaving, just little things. Another place we had stopped in for a drink, the lady in there told us if we needed anything while in Leros or needed help we were to go see her. Just a pity it is so quiet otherwise it would have been nice to winter there. 

I’m surprised, but the crew of Syeni (Nicolas boat) and Camira were all up the next day and made off for Arki. We anchored in  Blue Bay, I’m not actually sure if this is what it’s called but it’s very apt, the water is crystal clear and as blue as blue can be, beautiful!

 

We arrived after Nicolas and Marielle to be told that Marielle was in bed ill from the night before’s shenanigans. I felt so sorry for her, a hangover in the heat we have here at the moment would be murder. I put some alka seltzer in a plastic bag in between my teeth and swam over with them.

That night we went over to Syeni for a small aperitif. We were very well behaved in that not a lot of alcohol was consumed, however, there was a beautiful full moon and Nicolas said it was a Catalan tradition to bare your bum to the moon, make a wish and swim naked in the sea. Well….it had to be done. However, the swim came later from my own boat…..the French are quite happy pottering about naked, but I’m Scottish. It was a good night and very beautiful.

Next day, Nicolas and Marielle came across in the dinghy and we all went for a wee tour of Blue bay before they headed off to Patmos to meet friends.