Sticks and Stones

Before we left Monemvasia we were visited by a turtle. I would imagine he / she was a good age going by its size.

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Turtle swimming past boat in the harbour.  Final view of climb up to St Sophia Church

We arrived in Lerakas around lunchtime

Well, Well, Well. We didn’t think there were any places like this left in Greece. Lerakas was beautiful. When we arrived we anchored in the bay at the entrance in about 10 metres.

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Initial anchorage

However, after a few hours it started clouding over and got thundery so we moved further in and went stern too the harbour wall just in case the weather kicked off. A Swedish woman , who’s boat Gordon had kept an eye on in Pilos, brought us over a rum cocktail. He hadn’t even recognised them !

Bliss, because next to the harbour wall was a swimming area with steps down into the water, it was like your own private swimming pool with the added bonus of a shower. (Ed note: and wasps)

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Pier berth and the “swimming pool”

The village was tiny, it consisted of three tavernas and seemingly a small shop, we never found the shop, I’m sure the pilot book has that wrong. There was a vegetable van came round playing loud music just to let you know he was there. Further round a  small hotel and a further taverna but it is as if the whole place has been hidden away, practically untouched by tourism, heaven!

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Our evening stroll the 1st night

We spent two days here, our first night was rudely interrupted at one in the morning by some teenagers mucking around on the harbour wall and thought it would be a laugh to throw chuckies at the boat. A bit of a shock in such a tiny wee place, but probably that’s the most exciting thing that teenagers can get up to there. (Ed note: probably cannie get glue to sniff – as no small shop, eh?)

Annoying, but it didn’t put us off staying another night. The locals were going to ensure the head man of the village was on the case , they were appalled.

Both nights we wandered along to the third Taverna for a small refreshment and some of the freshly caught calamari and whitebait. The best time was just before the sun went down, it was so peaceful other than the wasps which don’t head back to their nests till after sunset. Needless to say my Ouzo and glass took flight after it seemed every wasp in the place was after me. I wonder if I’ll ever get used to them?  (Ed note: NAW!)

The morning before we left we had a wander up around the wee village. Great views of the harbour. In the old days they used to place a chain across the entrance to keep out attacking ships.

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The village perched above the harbour

Monemvasia Old Town

After arrival of a few more yachts I had to snorkel out to check if the anchor had been crossed. It hadn’t. Big turtle in the bay, glad it didn’t fancy a bite.
Early the following morning we set off to Monemvasia old town and to climb to the top to see the church of Ayia Sofia.
Monemvasia island was called Minoa in ancient times, suggesting Cretan influence. Until the 20th century it was an important port, the last port of call before setting off round Cape Malea. The old fortified village is Byzantine origin although the Venetians rebuilt much of it.

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Yefira & views to Monemvasia

You walk across a causeway from Yefira to the massive lump of Monemvasia and the old town

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Me adjusting crampons & Louise looking a little perturbed

You can see Saint Sophia Chapel on the top – that’s where we are headed after you reach the old town on the “lower” slopes

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The old town

It has been nicely developed and the villagers have opened up numerous boutique shops and cafes.

But essentially its the same as when  the fortress was  originally built

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The start and destination of the rest of the climb

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Nearly there 

And as usual we forgot to bring any water !

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Ayia Sofia a really pretty wee church

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Now time to go back down for a beer ………….. pleeeeeze

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The bars and restaurants have fantastic views ……….

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and some don’t !

Frango Bay to Monemvasia

After a rolly night we awoke to a glassy sea.
Now I  wasn’t complaining as Cape Malea needs to be treated with some caution.
A motor job it was with some fantastic scenery. There are bits that remided us of Sutherland, except that it was 22 degrees at 08:00. It took us 2 hours to round Cape Malea and a further 3 to Yefira , the town next to Monemvasia.
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Could be Sutherland
As you transit Cape Malea there is a monks refuge and it is said they look after the ships as they pass and that you should wave your thanks to them, we did. I dont know how they built or get to the refuge unless by boat, you cannot see any obvious paths over the mountain.
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Monks Refuge
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Cape Malea
After rounding the cape it was ahot motor up to Yefira you can see the lump of Monemvasia in the distance
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Monemvasia
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Aye well
We arrived in Monemvasia at lunchtime and tied up stern to on the pier. We were just settled when a fishing boat came in trailing a sunk smaller fishing float. We surmise he must’ve taken water aboard the previous night in the heavy seas? Anyhow he was craned out pretty quickly so hopefully he will get fixed soon
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A sad sight
Well we have arrived in a very pretty and therefore understandibly more touristy place with touristy prices. We had the most expensive meal out to date, next to a blaring TV. However the Marina itself is dirt cheap and very quiet so no complaints. It will be Louise’s Greek meatballs tonight, they are very good, I say this in the hope of an extra portion !
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Yefira town and Monemvasia in the distance